I carry a SPARE points-distributor in the car!
Neil Vedder
AdamL57@xxxxxxx wrote:
I personally do not trust pertronix ignitions, I left points in my 318, no
matter how bad they get they WILL get you home unlike the aftermarket
electronic conversions. If you use a pertronixs ignition carry a complete points
set up with you for when it fails.
Adam Lindenbaum
In a message dated 8/19/2011 2:20:02 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
esierraadj@xxxxxxxxxxx writes:
On that Pertronix electronic ignition conversion, Dave forgot
to mention (for shame, Dave) that you will need to acquire a
dual-point distributor, and/or a dualie's upper cam-and-plate
assembly (to install into a single-point dissie, if that's what you
have, now, or, the dualie can be used to replace the entire
single-point dissie).
The C&P is needed to accommodate the Pertronix "under-
cap" (hidden-) electronic ignition system.
At this point, there is a myriad of 'new' issues about the
performance of your existing dissie and/or a replacement
dualie-dissie, but, any replacement drop-in dualie-dissie
must have a shaft length equal to your existing dissie.
There are two different shaft lengths on the FWDLK
dissies, depending on the year/model of your car.
A dualie FWDLK-era C&P will retrofit into any other
FWDLK dissie, however, for a Pertronix installation.
And, this is the (very-) SHORT answer about installing
a Pertronix system, (and, possibly, hot-rodding your
car's distributor's performance; but, that's a completely
different, additional very-long story!).
Altho a ballast resistor is not needed w/a Pertronix
system, you can keep your car's B.-A. still installed,
but, merely not connected to the distributor.
The Pertronix, all by itself, will NOT improve your
car's performance (that's what the hot-rodded dissie
does); it will only make the car's 'spark' consistent,
hot, and reliable.
Now I know why Dave forgot to mention how/why
a Pertronix might be installed in a dissie!!!
Neil Vedder
Dave Homstad wrote:
Ed,
Some things to consider:
1. You need a 1 ohm resistor that can handle several amps of current.
It also should be a "wire wound" style. These are intended to allow
maximum current flow when cold, and increase resistance as they warm
up to reduce current flow to the ignition coil.
2. These resistors run HOT. You should use a high temperature solder.
3. I see on eBay a modern ballast resistor for sale all the time.
Looks nearly identical to the old style except the terminals are
different.
4. For my car, I bought a ballast resistor RU13 (looks like the
original except for the terminals, from Car Quest, 1.6 ohms).
5. If you convert to a PerTronix, you don't even need a ballast
resistor if you use their coil or one with an internal resistance.
Dave Homstad
56 Dodge D500
On Thu, Aug 18, 2011 at 4:02 PM, eddee@xxxxxxxxxxxxx wrote:
Hello Members
I have an orig 1957/58 ballast resister (very rare as we all
know),,,,,,,,,,,,,,,but the resister wire on the back side is shot.
I have been looking locally for a shop to solder in a new in line 1
ohm resister between the two terminals
Job is too small--they are not interested.
but it is somewhat intricate since you almost have to solder it blind.
ANY SUGGESTIONS --Can any of you do this type of soldering??
ED ECKERSON
LI NY
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