Re: [FWDLK] WHO CAN DO SOLDERING
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Re: [FWDLK] WHO CAN DO SOLDERING



I carry a SPARE points-distributor in the car!

Neil Vedder



AdamL57@xxxxxxx wrote:
I personally do not trust pertronix ignitions, I left points in my 318, no matter how bad they get they WILL get you home unlike the aftermarket electronic conversions. If you use a pertronixs ignition carry a complete points set up with you for when it fails.
Adam Lindenbaum
In a message dated 8/19/2011 2:20:02 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, esierraadj@xxxxxxxxxxx writes:

On that  Pertronix electronic ignition conversion, Dave forgot
to mention (for  shame, Dave) that you will need to acquire a
dual-point distributor, and/or  a dualie's upper cam-and-plate
assembly (to install into a single-point  dissie, if that's what you
have, now, or, the dualie can be used to replace  the entire
single-point dissie).

The C&P is needed  to  accommodate  the Pertronix  "under-
cap" (hidden-) electronic  ignition system.

At this point, there is a myriad of 'new' issues about  the
performance of your existing dissie and/or a  replacement
dualie-dissie, but, any replacement drop-in  dualie-dissie
must have a shaft length equal to your existing  dissie.

There are two different shaft lengths on  the  FWDLK
dissies, depending on the year/model of your car.

A dualie  FWDLK-era C&P will retrofit into any other
FWDLK dissie, however, for a  Pertronix installation.

And, this is the (very-) SHORT answer about  installing
a Pertronix system, (and, possibly, hot-rodding your
car's  distributor's performance; but, that's a completely
different, additional  very-long story!).

Altho a ballast resistor is not needed w/a  Pertronix
system, you can keep your car's B.-A. still installed,
but,  merely not connected to the distributor.

The Pertronix, all by itself,  will NOT improve your
car's performance (that's what the hot-rodded  dissie
does); it will only make the car's 'spark' consistent,
hot, and  reliable.

Now I know why Dave forgot to mention how/why
a Pertronix  might be installed in a dissie!!!


Neil  Vedder




Dave Homstad wrote:
Ed,

Some  things to consider:
1. You need a 1 ohm resistor that can handle several amps of current. It also should be a "wire wound" style. These are intended to allow maximum current flow when cold, and increase resistance as they warm up to reduce current flow to the ignition coil.
2. These resistors run HOT. You should use a high  temperature solder.
3. I see on eBay a modern ballast resistor for sale all the time. Looks nearly identical to the old style except the terminals are different. 4. For my car, I bought a ballast resistor RU13 (looks like the original except for the terminals, from Car Quest, 1.6 ohms). 5. If you convert to a PerTronix, you don't even need a ballast resistor if you use their coil or one with an internal resistance.


Dave  Homstad
56 Dodge D500

On Thu, Aug 18, 2011 at 4:02 PM,  eddee@xxxxxxxxxxxxx wrote:

Hello  Members

I have an orig 1957/58 ballast resister (very rare as we all know),,,,,,,,,,,,,,,but the resister wire on the back side is shot.

I have been looking locally for a shop to solder in a new in line 1 ohm resister between the two terminals

Job is too small--they are not  interested.
but it is somewhat intricate since you almost have to  solder it blind.

ANY SUGGESTIONS --Can any of you do  this type of soldering??

ED ECKERSON
 LI  NY

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