Kenneth,
Additional thoughts/opinion...
1. Re: front & rear inner fender color, I sprayed the rubberized black
undercoating to the underside of fenders and sprayed a flat black paint to the
interior splash pans of the wheel wells. Reason: as Jim pointed out,
appearance-wise they will “disappear” and not draw attention from the exterior
paint finish. Secondly, the rubberized black undercoating protects from
flying road debris, although I have not found that to be a noticeable problem on
the road. I am not sure what you mean by “rolling on a bedliner” but it
sound too thick, unoriginal-looking, and unnecessary (insert my “opinion”
here).
2. Re: underhood insulation methods...with the tall convex/concave 56 style
hoods there is a great deal of air-movement and very little heat transfer to be
concerned about “cooking” the topside hood paint. Even the compact &
hot underhood temperatures in Southern California HOT summer driving (90-105F
w/no humidity) there has not been one iota of heat transfer damage/discoloration
of any sort to my sixties Dart w/headers and HP 340 engine. And therefore,
even less chance of any heat damage to my bulbous hood 56 Plymouth.
Reflection: at one point I was also concerned about engine heat
transfer/damage to exterior hood paint on my Dart and installed a fibre hood
mat; result was heat retention under the hood (not good w/our Ethanol based
fuels or efficient combustion) which impaired mileage & power due to
increased operating temperatures of heated air induction into the air
cleaner/motor. Yes, the exterior hood paint was “cooler” to the touch but
even with a clear coat finish the potential damage w/o a hood mat was a
non-issue/not a possibility. Lastly, the fibre mat did chafe the paint
because it is abrasive.
Therefore, I think it unnecessary and unadvisable to install a non-original
appearing hood insulation to your 56 Dodge and you will thoroughly be impressed
with an exterior paint quality finish to the underside of the hood every time
you pop the hood for service/inspection or for admirers at a car show.
3. My trunk material was also rotted and I removed all the “visible”
matting which left the hidden amount to prevent any rattles (although I am not
sure this will be a problem – and if it is then I will add a thin black neoprene
sleeve into the remaining crevice) and painted the inside of trunk lid the same
color as the exterior paint. I must say that the non-original color-keyed
paint to the underside of the hood and trunk lid is far more pleasing to my eyes
than the OEM gray.
I would definitely steer you away from any silicone or injected material
for many reasons... chiefly because of “appearance” issues as Jim mentioned but
because all once slightly viscous materials can lose shape/ooze/and become messy
& problematic to apply and don’t pertain to addressing body part concerns;
unless you are dealing with unseen cavity wax between trunk welds/floor for
rust/moisture inhibition.
Take care and feel free to email me privately if you would like to see some
pictures of my 56 panels/body parts.
Gary Pavlovich
Sent: Thursday, June 04, 2015 10:20 AM
Subject: Re: [FWDLK] Prep for painting
My thoughts...
1 - Seems like a good idea. What I'm
wondering about is the idea of painting that area inside the wheel wells body
color. Seems like they should be painted black so they sort of disappear
from view when people look at the car. Even if it's not how the factory
did it I would probably paint it black unless I was looking for complete
originality.
2 - I don't think the bedliner would be
very good at insulating. Probably better than nothing but if you really
want protection I think you need to use a fiberglass mat, with or without the
silver layer.
3 - I would not use any silicone.
Every silicone I have used winds up shiney. I used some black silicone to
do just what you are describing but for my hood and the first thing that catches
your eye when you look under the hood is "what's that shiny stuff". Plus
silicone doesn't take well to painting and maybe someday you'll want to paint
it. The best stuff I found for sealing stuff and gluing things is urethane
(home depot's website shows a wide variety of types and colors). And it
can be painted if you want. Since you want to still let it move so it
doesn't cause the panel to warp I would use the smallest bead I could get away
with rather than using a bunch and doing "too good" a job of gluing things
together.
From: "Rimington, Kenneth"
<ken.rimington@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Thursday, June 4, 2015
9:23 AM
Subject: [FWDLK] Prep
for painting
This is a bit of a narrative, sorry,
but I have a few concerns with prepping my 56 Dodge Custom Royal for
paint. The body is off frame now, so there is considerable latitude to
address the issues. I am not doing a strict concurs restoration, but,
standing off, I do not want the enhancements to be apparent.
- Inner/outer fenders – in ’56 the
inner and outer fenders are not lined. Modern cars have a poly liner to
protect from road debris. I am thinking of rolling on a bedliner on the
inside of the fenders on top of epoxy primer. This will allow for the
undercoating type of protection and provide a paintable surface so body
color paint can be applied like was done at the factory. Is this a
good idea? Any tips on getting the bedliner to go on approximately smooth.
- Hood – In ’56, for the most part,
hoods were unlined allowing engine heat to cook the paint. In the
60’s, a fiber mat was added for insulation from engine heat. In the
70’s aluminum foil was added to reflect the heat in addition to the fiber
mat. I would like to add heat protection for the hood paint.
Would the bedliner painted body color idea from the fenders work? Any
ideas on making it look good?
- Trunk lid – the asphalt mat between
the lid frame and skin on my car was deteriorated beyond repair, so I
slid it out of the trunk lid in chunks. The trunk interior was painted
Dodge dull gray, including the rotted mat. The mat allowed the skin
and frame to expand and contract without binding and provided anti-rattle
protection. I am planning on painting the trunk lid body color (much
better than dull gray J) and after painting, I
plan on masking the frame ribs and skin and injecting Black Max gasket
silicone between the skin and frame and tooling it smooth. When the
masking is removed, a smooth thin black line will be visible between the
skin and frame. Will this cause binding/warping and will this provide
anti-rattle protection?
Sorry for all the questions, but
thanks for the help.
Kenneth G. Rimington
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