Re: [Chrysler300] Dual master cylinder conversion

[lettercars@xxxxxxx]

Jim and All:
That doesn't speak too well for the 1970 Plymouth brake system, as it was  
of the Dual variety!  Perhaps the other "side" of the system had  already 
failed along with the reminder/warning light.
 
I agree the changing to the dual system is a bit of an overkill.  If  one 
replaces all the components with new (hoses and lines) and rebuilt/new  
cylinders, one really has nothing to worry about.  I do always check  my brake 
fluid before departing on a long trip such as to a meet.  One can  always make 
a "what if" case for adding most any safety oriented item.   None of us 
will ever be driving our cars in the road salt that would result in  rust 
through of the steel lines as it did with new cars of the time.  It  has been my 
experience also that sudden brake failure is rare.  I used to  drive my 
brake fluid seeping 56 DeSoto "salt car" down 8 Mile Road to work  daily at the 
Warren Truck plant.  I knew when it got down to 3 pumps  to get deceleration 
it was time to add a bit of fluid!  (4 pumps once  required a pull on the 
hand brake.)
 
Now, don't get me started on why I think the original drum (with servo  
action) brakes--properly set up--are probably superior to those tiny disks that 
 will fit in a 6" X 14" wheel!!!
 
Well, enough from here---its time for a martini on the porch.
300ly, Gil C.
Perfect weather in Tally, FL
 
 
 
In a message dated 4/21/2010 2:22:58 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
ajp002@xxxxxxxxx writes:

Years  ago, while driving, my brother had the flexible brake hose between  
the
metal line and one of the front brakes rupture on his 1970 RoadRunner,  
which
resulted in total hydraulic brake failure.  He was quick enough  minded to
use the emergency brake to get back home.

If you have  replaced all three of the brake hoses, my personal view is that
converting  to a dual master cylinder may be overkill.  Other than my
brother's  incident, sudden brake failure is rare.

Much more common is gradual  failure in which the brake pedal continues to
get softer or lower.  I  recently had this on my 1999 Dodge van.  It turned
out that one of the  rear brake cylinders had a slow leak and my brake fluid
eventually went too  low.  Then, the pedal nearly went to the floor, but 
this
was gradual  over a few days.

Best regards, Jim

On Wed, Apr 21, 2010 at 12:37  PM, keboonstra <kboonstra@xxxxxxxxxxxx>  
wrote:

>
>
>
> I'm doing a high quality "driver  restoration" to factory correct on our
> 300C, and I am considering the  idea of converting to a dual master 
cylinder
> system if I can work up  enough worry about the single cylinder system. 
I've
> never had a  problem with loss of braking in my lifetime of driving, and 
have
> heard  or read of very few cases where it happened to someone.
>
> If I  make sure I have a very well freshened brake system throughout my 
car,
>  how much concern should I have about a single master? Changing to dual  
would
> be my only concession to modernity other than the installation  of seat 
belts
> and radials in my car, and I don't get pulled easily  over to the 
"updating"
> side in our old car hobby. I really enjoy  experiencing the way an old car
> acts for the most part, but I want to  keep safety in mind as well. What 
do
> you think?
>
> And  how about this related question. Suppose your brakes went out and all
>  you now had was your parking brake to save you from certain mayhem.  
Would
> you pull the brake just a little to slow down gradually and risk  having 
it
> fade and become useless? Or would you pull it decisively so  as to lock 
it up
> before it has a chance to fade from overheat? Would  pulling it too hard 
at
> speed bust up the brake and leave you with  nothing?
>
> Or how about hitting the "R" button at road speed? Is  there a lockout to
> keep it from going to reverse at certain speeds?  That maneuver may 
possibly
> throw your car in a spin, but prudently  done it might be better than
> coasting a half mile looking for a soft  tree to stop you.
>
>  
>
>
>


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