Hi Terry..yes --if the gearboxes are otherwise ok, and have removable covers, usually they are both, we are ok. Sometimes rust is in end bells where the motor brushes are. We can look into that. usually cleans up. . There is a rather fragile plastic disc , like a hat, between the gearbox and motor, when mounted motor down or motor low that is absolutely critical to keeping water out. Kind of a rain shield or slinger. Often missing, or becomes a loose fit on shaft , which lets water get to the brass nose bearing of motor and then it runs into bottom of motor rusting motor and freezing up brushes in holders –or rusting whole motor inside, ruining it. . Can reglue that disc watertight with weatherstrip cement. I have also drilled an .060 hole in the end bell low place to let water out. We have also encountered bad / deteriorated rubber couplings between motor and gear box. There are ways to fix that by making a new metal one, custom machined. If alignment allows .
I get into this detail , as sometimes more than that gear is involved, so no one can predict what happens with any one box. ; -----but without the gear , however, it IS junk. ( but save that junk, now!) The nylon gears will all strip eventually, it is not well designed, nylon ring gear snapped on (?) toothed steel gear hub, it was flexible when new, the nylon is very thin between the nylon tooth roots, and nylon gets very brittle with age and snaps between teeth on the rim of the wheel—then it just spins .
Not really a business per se, here, but glad to help out. We did make the aluminum bronze gears in our machine shop, to fix this problem on several of my cars. we can readily sell them loose. Have about 5 in use , so far excellent . The rebuilding the gear box / gear part IS easier with certain tools for pressing it out but can be done in the garage. I believe we have a sheet about how.
If you want to do this, Keith will respond to you in a day or so with estimated costs if straight out gear replacement , and also cost for just the loose gears. It is a best effort type thing .
Thanks for asking, Terry, hope this info helps you and others. Frustrating to have the car all together and then this happens.
PS when removing motor drive from window regulator be EXREMELY careful of wound up spring loads ,it can snap at you violently ; has to be put back in the same way. I think I remember drilling arm and plate for a bolt to hold it, way back Note in a sketch how it is in position before taking apart. They mount same parts different ways L +R. Marking the motor that is brush end low in car helps too. Motor pinion location to sector gear does not matter . Easier to take apart if in unwound position obviously , + one lead to ground sends it up other + to ground sends it down . But it may not move now.
John, this is Terry McTaggart. I saw your note in the latest Newsflite concerning the power window gearbox gear. I have had two of these gears with the nylon teeth fail, so I am quite interested. My 300F will go into winter storage sometime near the end of November. If I were to remove two of these gearboxes and send them to you, along for a check for ???, might I have them back, fixed, in time for spring? Thanx.
Posted by: "John Grady" <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
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