RE: [Chrysler300] correct 300H ignition coi voltagel
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RE: [Chrysler300] correct 300H ignition coi voltagel



Hi Paul,

I found it at night, too---in the pouring rain..it had gotten so bad in damp driving that car would barely run, one year old 383 Charger. Opened hood , in dark , in rain , I saw solid strong blue spark from under that tower cap or cup jumping right to one of the primary terminal nuts. . Cap on the coil tower was loose, ( lousy ones are plastic, old ones were tight fitting flexible rubber) had never been pushed on right, or tech had messed with it, first issue ,--- but also any dirt on the tower/grease holds beaded water causes this to get worse in rain or fog . Cleaned tower by side of road with cloth, next day silicone grease, put cap down on tight into grease..wiped tower area clean, no more problems. AMC 6 do this too. Ex's Gremlin 258  died every time she hit a puddle. I mean dead. Same issue. Now habitually I wipe that every time I am under any hood. Dow Silicone "stopcock " grease is same as dielectric, better stuff. Bigger tube. Later new 440 Challenger did same thing, dealership changed plugs,  still same issues.(skip) Bad resistor wires add to this too. Must be under about 40K ohms ; people pull them off plug by wire, fiberglass/carbon  strand inside  breaks. Never pull off plug by the wire.  

Dwell meter really important with dual points I think. Unbelievable how wrong they can be with just gapping them and hoping. Many do not understand that they BOTH must open and close  for each spark. Second one opens(other is already open, ) that gives you the spark; immediately the first one that was open ahead of time closes to start to build more coil charge time for next spark . Overlap (open time for spark, both open ) almost zero if working right but that makes for super super fussy. . But time on (dwell) goes up, critical at high RPM. With only one set, you have to wait till the single one  you have rides over nose of distributor cam and down the other side, before it closes--and then it bounces..... (those 'Hi RPM" single point Chebby....right)  And runout or side to side play in distributor shaft gets much more critical, should by under .005, ideally .002. Lately I go to electronic ignition conversion / orange box from mopar, where possible, avoid all this "problem waiting to happen" stuff. But cannot on F,G   with B block due to tach drive distributer and "keep it stock" aspect. I do not trust Pertronix, others love them. That is OK too.. But when they die you will walk. Unless drag racing to 7500, a perfect dual point in good shape is the best you can get. Hot heads sells an  adapter to put MP 360 distributor in 392's or 354 331. It is basically a shaft extension , cheap. Have that , in one 300C. Not agile enough to get back in there under heater going after the dual points,  and then drop a tiny screw , --anymore.. 

Have been thinking about driving the orange box with points, for any 12v 300 . I am sure I can design something but have never been able to get an electrical  print of what is inside orange box , and they pot it in tar. Iterating it without print just not smart. ( can do that too) With that box, electronics inside set the very high dwell, it recloses circuit to charge the coil immediately after a spark. "Dwell" goes way up. .Good for 7-8000 RPM with stock coil. The right circuit, in an adaption done right,  would only see the first opening=spark, ignore bounce etc. Then, take out one set, other set would last forever with such low current .( no need for two,  and fussies).

Related to all this cannot help but comment how dumb MSD approach is. Spark no better/ hotter  than a point coil can do-- when saturated, no matter what they do, (coil energy is the limit) and "multiple sparks" (what MS stands for)  that come "later on" are useless (timing way off) Might help you start up?? . But better I suppose than single point stock Chebby. 400$? BS baffles brains. 

Also related many new capacitors in new kits are Chinese junk..they go intermittently open inside. If it has an array of stamped lines like dents in the flat end away from wire, that is the electrical connection, (!!) made by denting it in. Aluminum oxidizes inside, =intermittent connection. Car runs bad then good on and off. Those are the junk ones. Test your old one it is a better thing. High ohms on analog meter it should jump up for a second than go back to infinity. Short to test again . Spark energy drops way down with bad cap.

-----Original Message-----
From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of paul paulholm@xxxxxxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300]
Sent: Sunday, February 28, 2016 11:46 AM
Cc: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] correct 300H ignition coi voltagel

On 02/28/16 07:09, John Grady jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300] wrote:

snip

> Barely enough at high rpm .. Why the two points in first place on 
> letter cars . If set too loose high rpm miss coil undercharged. If too 
> tight not clean break = high rpm miss . Coil tower must be spotless 
> silicone grease under cup . Mopars are known for spark jumping under 
> cup to primary terminals. Drove me crazy did not know that on 68 
> charger new car. Hi rpm miss.
> Hope this helps.

> Sent from my iPhone

Thats why some of us learned to look for spark leakage at night, under a dark sky with no lights its easier to see the spark jumping around if it is leaking. Either at the coil or anywhere along the wires.
Spark tends to look for the path of least resistance when seeking a path to ground.

--
  --
Paul Holmgren
If you could sum up all you felt about life and crystallize it in one master insight, you would have said it all, and you would be dead  -  Fritz Leiber  -


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Posted by: paul <paulholm@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
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Posted by: "John Grady" <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
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