Re: [Chrysler300] correct 300H ignition coi voltagel
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Re: [Chrysler300] correct 300H ignition coi voltagel



On 02/28/16 14:49, John Grady wrote:
> Hi Paul,

snip

> Have been thinking about driving the orange box with points, for any
> 12v 300 . I am sure I can design something but have never been able
> to get an electrical  print of what is inside orange box , and they
> pot it in tar. Iterating it without print just not smart. ( can do
> that too) With that box, electronics inside set the very high dwell,
> it recloses circuit to charge the coil immediately after a spark.
> "Dwell" goes way up. .Good for 7-8000 RPM with stock coil. The right
> circuit, in an adaption done right,  would only see the first
> opening=spark, ignore bounce etc. Then, take out one set, other set
> would last forever with such low current .( no need for two,  and
> fussies).

snip

> Also related many new capacitors in new kits are Chinese junk..they
> go intermittently open inside. If it has an array of stamped lines
> like dents in the flat end away from wire, that is the electrical
> connection, (!!) made by denting it in. Aluminum oxidizes inside,
> =intermittent connection. Car runs bad then good on and off. Those
> are the junk ones. Test your old one it is a better thing. High ohms
> on analog meter it should jump up for a second than go back to
> infinity. Short to test again . Spark energy drops way down with bad
> cap.

This is why I still have an analog multimeter in my test instruments 
arsenal.  Old school testing suggests analog meters testing allows
one to follow the curve during capacitor testing.


-- 
  --
Paul Holmgren
If you could sum up all you felt about life and crystallize
it in one master insight, you would have said it all, and
you would be dead  -  Fritz Leiber  -


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Posted by: paul <paulholm@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
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