Re: [Chrysler300] correct 300H ignition coi voltagel
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Re: [Chrysler300] correct 300H ignition coi voltagel

On 02/28/16 14:49, John Grady wrote:
> Hi Paul,


> Have been thinking about driving the orange box with points, for any
> 12v 300 . I am sure I can design something but have never been able
> to get an electrical  print of what is inside orange box , and they
> pot it in tar. Iterating it without print just not smart. ( can do
> that too) With that box, electronics inside set the very high dwell,
> it recloses circuit to charge the coil immediately after a spark.
> "Dwell" goes way up. .Good for 7-8000 RPM with stock coil. The right
> circuit, in an adaption done right,  would only see the first
> opening=spark, ignore bounce etc. Then, take out one set, other set
> would last forever with such low current .( no need for two,  and
> fussies).


> Also related many new capacitors in new kits are Chinese junk..they
> go intermittently open inside. If it has an array of stamped lines
> like dents in the flat end away from wire, that is the electrical
> connection, (!!) made by denting it in. Aluminum oxidizes inside,
> =intermittent connection. Car runs bad then good on and off. Those
> are the junk ones. Test your old one it is a better thing. High ohms
> on analog meter it should jump up for a second than go back to
> infinity. Short to test again . Spark energy drops way down with bad
> cap.

This is why I still have an analog multimeter in my test instruments 
arsenal.  Old school testing suggests analog meters testing allows
one to follow the curve during capacitor testing.

Paul Holmgren
If you could sum up all you felt about life and crystallize
it in one master insight, you would have said it all, and
you would be dead  -  Fritz Leiber  -

Posted by: paul <paulholm@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>

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