Hi Marshall..just an observation;
You really do not want to connect it at battery terminal, as that makes the ammeter read backwards…when you turn on lights with car running ammeter will show a high charge ..that is not really going into battery, it is going into wire you added to battery connection to light headlights . With car off it will not read discharge either (as it should read the discharge then) . I made that mistake the first time I did it.
I have not done it on a 300, but have done it on many other cars, last one a 67 Dart. You have to find alternator main large wire at dash near steering column and splice onto that with a #10/ 30 A fuse ; I skin the wire with razor knife, no cutting then wrap the fanned out tap strands around for about an inch and solder with 250 w gun. Wrap with real #33 scotch tape, not the Chinese junk electrical tape sold everywhere that unravels as you walk away. This wire is live all the time…through the ammeter. And has to resist underhood temps. I use that corrugated slit tube to hide all this in black. My son in law is a cop who on the side converts regular cars to cop cars ; huge wiring job. He told me about high temp hi quality version of that stuff..it has a stripe on it light color , green or white means high temp. The usual stuff melts, easily . I do not remember brand, can find out --or Terry might know . Supplier of car wiring stuff.
I choose not to risk a difficult to source and replace light switch. I make and sell a kit that utilizes the switch only for activating one or more relays to power the lights. A kit can be used to power the high beams and a second for the low beams. Personally, I use two kits for the headlights.
These kits are individually fused for dead short protection also. The entire kit is installed out of sight, usually under the battery tray. The lights are powered from the + battery cable's first connection point. All modifications and components are under the hood.
These kits can be used for any high current draw accessory such as Air Conditioning, wipers, monster stereo, or any other circuit. $35 each or $55 for two shipped together. Also available in 6 volt for $5 more each.
I will ship after mid May.
The sealed beam headlamps in my 300F are well over 35 years old. Although I rarely drive the car at night, when I do the light output is grossly inadequate. Do the old sealed beam lamps deteriorate with age or usage? If I were to replace them with something more modern (halogen?) is the wiring in the car adequate to supply the necessary power to the updated bulbs? Terry McTaggart
Posted by: "John Grady" <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
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