RE: [Chrysler300] power window help

["'John Grady' jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300]" <Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Hi Van,

First, Separate the motor as installed in car from switches and wiring by
grounding the motor frame, if not already in door.. in door,  ground is ok.
That grounds it. Put live # 12   wire 12V lead from car battery into one
connector, then the other , it should go up then down. If it does = you have
wiring, poor connector ,  or switch problem, (if not a single side defective
field winding inside motor ). But I REALLY doubt that..more likely
connectors not tight? Brushes and armature are used by exact same
connections inside in both directions so that is ok and usually = the bad
parts. ( brush sticks in holder ..do not oil that, just free it  ) Where did
you get the motor? "Appear identical" may not be right, re: case/appearance
of motor. ? But they probably ARE right,  if PW motors from that era Chysler
products . From junk car or something? There is also a thermal switch that
is supposed to open if say a kid holds down the switch , against a stall, to
keep motor from burning up .It snaps open, resets after a minute . I mention
that (mounted near brush) , it looks like ignition points, as they get rusty
if water gets in which happens in front doors, then is intermittent in
contact. BE SURE water thrower or ring is in place on shaft at top of motor
..I glue those on w weatherstrip cement , to seal them to shaft , they are
critical to keep rain out of motor. Water runs along shaft into front
bearing and motor. That totals the motor ---and quickly. 

Can check field winding with low ohm meter(hate digital meters, reading
jumps around) analog ohmmeter, low ohms scale , read each lead to motor
case. Should be about the same within 10% _If one reads very high that side
field coil is open, motor is defective or needs repairs . Or broken wire
internally to plastic insulation covering,  where it leaves motor (from
wiggling) .

This should find it! 

You have old seized motor? If you do not need it , or going to toss, can
mail to me. I strip for parts. Or you can. 

-----Original Message-----
From: rinandal [mailto:rinandvan@xxxxxxx] 
Sent: Wednesday, July 27, 2016 6:25 PM
To: John Grady
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] power window help

Hi John,
The motors appear identical to the frozen one.  Same non mixable  leads and
color.  Strange to me is the testing I did with the motor was with door
switches and car leads as if were in the car.  Only addition was a ground
wire from car to the motor.  Without the gear box the motor ran when switch(
still in the door) was pushed up and when pushed down.  Add gearbox no down
motor action at all ??
Van
On Jul 27, 2016, at 2:09 PM, John Grady wrote:

> If like 60 , two field windings. You put 12 volts from one wire to 
> motor case , NOT  between the two wires. One field is wound opposite 
> to other so only one field works at a time (weird) ; but if you do not 
> do this, then you have to reverse the polarity of armature or field 
> (only one!) to reverse a DC motor, takes a relay,  lots of wires come 
> out for wound field, 4 plus relay, power lead and command leads. ( 
> some can be common)  . But original 300C to F G design ( at least) 
> works ok, just means bigger motor , ground motor;  12 V to one is up, 
> 12 to other is down. Easy to test. I get into this as you may be 
> testing it wrong ? Or have wrong motor. I do not know which type 300K has,
but probably first type. Where did you get "a motor" .
> A heater motor looks like it but will not work at all. 
> 
> Later power window motors have magnets in them, no field windings  so 
> you cannot do this . On those you swap + and - volts to reverse ( 
> relay or special switch with 6 pins (vs three to our first type) .
> 
> Good luck,
> John
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] 
> On Behalf Of rinandal rinandvan@xxxxxxx [Chrysler300]
> Sent: Wednesday, July 27, 2016 3:09 PM
> To: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [Chrysler300] power window help
> 
> Hi Out there,
> A little background before I reveal my problem. I have a 1964 300k 
> convertible power windows.  Front passenger side stop working all 
> others work as they should.  Found motor frozen  Replaced it greased 
> gear box, motor and gear box both turned fine.  Tested switches they seem
fine.
> Hooked up motor only and all worked fine. With the switch it seemed to 
> run in one direction when switch pushed up and another when switch pushed
down.
> Now my problem!  Hooked up gear box all turns easy by hand.  Tested 
> motor with gear box and it only works in the going up.  Nothing when I hit
down?
> Any enlightenment from someone out there about this conundrum would be 
> greatly appreciated.
> 
> Al Van Lennep
> 
> ------------------------------------
> Posted by: rinandal <rinandvan@xxxxxxx>
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Posted by: "John Grady" <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
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