RE: [Chrysler300] power window help
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RE: [Chrysler300] power window help



Something not aligned there..maybe mechanical jam..there is an adjusting
screw on gearbox may be too tight..in line with motor shaft at other end
,takes axial play out should be a little bit of axial play maybe about .010
to avoid jamming. Gear box might be pushing in on motor shaft! maybe a
mechanical jam problem..never thought of that , would be tighter one way
than other due to worm pitch inside it . Bet that is it..so no electrical
problem ---it could not turn. 

-----Original Message-----
From: rinandal [mailto:rinandvan@xxxxxxx] 
Sent: Thursday, July 28, 2016 2:30 PM
To: John Grady
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] power window help

Hi John,
Great last suggestion. Tested the motor at battery with gear box on.
Grounded it then applied 12 V to male connector then female connector and
the motor turned the gear box as it was suppose to. I have had these motors
for quite some time, may have come when I purchased the car 20 years ago?  I
found no short in the in car lines from switch to motor.  Also go 12v from
switch to connectors in the car( no load of course).  A side note; I
observed that I can torque the gear box on to the motor and greatly increase
the resistance to turning.

Thanks for the great suggestions and help.
Van

 
On Jul 28, 2016, at 10:01 AM, John Grady wrote:

> Hi Van,
> 
> First, Separate the motor as installed in car from switches and wiring 
> by grounding the motor frame, if not already in door.. in door,  ground is
ok.
> That grounds it. Put live # 12   wire 12V lead from car battery into one
> connector, then the other , it should go up then down. If it does = 
> you have wiring, poor connector ,  or switch problem, (if not a single 
> side defective field winding inside motor ). But I REALLY doubt 
> that..more likely connectors not tight? Brushes and armature are used 
> by exact same connections inside in both directions so that is ok and 
> usually = the bad parts. ( brush sticks in holder ..do not oil that, 
> just free it  ) Where did you get the motor? "Appear identical" may 
> not be right, re: case/appearance of motor. ? But they probably ARE 
> right,  if PW motors from that era Chysler products . From junk car or 
> something? There is also a thermal switch that is supposed to open if 
> say a kid holds down the switch , against a stall, to keep motor from 
> burning up .It snaps open, resets after a minute . I mention that 
> (mounted near brush) , it looks like ignition points, as they get 
> rusty if water gets in which happens in front doors, then is 
> intermittent in contact. BE SURE water thrower or ring is in place on 
> shaft at top of motor ..I glue those on w weatherstrip cement , to 
> seal them to shaft , they are critical to keep rain out of motor. Water
runs along shaft into front bearing and motor. That totals the motor ---and
quickly.
> 
> Can check field winding with low ohm meter(hate digital meters, 
> reading jumps around) analog ohmmeter, low ohms scale , read each lead 
> to motor case. Should be about the same within 10% _If one reads very 
> high that side field coil is open, motor is defective or needs repairs 
> . Or broken wire internally to plastic insulation covering,  where it 
> leaves motor (from
> wiggling) .
> 
> This should find it! 
> 
> You have old seized motor? If you do not need it , or going to toss, 
> can mail to me. I strip for parts. Or you can.
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rinandal [mailto:rinandvan@xxxxxxx]
> Sent: Wednesday, July 27, 2016 6:25 PM
> To: John Grady
> Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] power window help
> 
> Hi John,
> The motors appear identical to the frozen one.  Same non mixable  
> leads and color.  Strange to me is the testing I did with the motor 
> was with door switches and car leads as if were in the car.  Only 
> addition was a ground wire from car to the motor.  Without the gear 
> box the motor ran when switch( still in the door) was pushed up and 
> when pushed down.  Add gearbox no down motor action at all ??
> Van
> On Jul 27, 2016, at 2:09 PM, John Grady wrote:
> 
>> If like 60 , two field windings. You put 12 volts from one wire to 
>> motor case , NOT  between the two wires. One field is wound opposite 
>> to other so only one field works at a time (weird) ; but if you do 
>> not do this, then you have to reverse the polarity of armature or 
>> field (only one!) to reverse a DC motor, takes a relay,  lots of 
>> wires come out for wound field, 4 plus relay, power lead and command 
>> leads. ( some can be common)  . But original 300C to F G design ( at 
>> least) works ok, just means bigger motor , ground motor;  12 V to one 
>> is up,
>> 12 to other is down. Easy to test. I get into this as you may be 
>> testing it wrong ? Or have wrong motor. I do not know which type 300K 
>> has,
> but probably first type. Where did you get "a motor" .
>> A heater motor looks like it but will not work at all. 
>> 
>> Later power window motors have magnets in them, no field windings  so 
>> you cannot do this . On those you swap + and - volts to reverse ( 
>> relay or special switch with 6 pins (vs three to our first type) .
>> 
>> Good luck,
>> John
>> 
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx 
>> [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx]
>> On Behalf Of rinandal rinandvan@xxxxxxx [Chrysler300]
>> Sent: Wednesday, July 27, 2016 3:09 PM
>> To: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>> Subject: [Chrysler300] power window help
>> 
>> Hi Out there,
>> A little background before I reveal my problem. I have a 1964 300k 
>> convertible power windows.  Front passenger side stop working all 
>> others work as they should.  Found motor frozen  Replaced it greased 
>> gear box, motor and gear box both turned fine.  Tested switches they 
>> seem
> fine.
>> Hooked up motor only and all worked fine. With the switch it seemed 
>> to run in one direction when switch pushed up and another when switch 
>> pushed
> down.
>> Now my problem!  Hooked up gear box all turns easy by hand.  Tested 
>> motor with gear box and it only works in the going up.  Nothing when 
>> I hit
> down?
>> Any enlightenment from someone out there about this conundrum would 
>> be greatly appreciated.
>> 
>> Al Van Lennep
>> 
>> ------------------------------------
>> Posted by: rinandal <rinandvan@xxxxxxx>
>> ------------------------------------
>> 
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>> 
>> 
>> 
> 



------------------------------------
Posted by: "John Grady" <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
------------------------------------

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