Hi Val & all,
Of course there is a modern replacement for the rear seal with retainers
and rubber seal replacing the rope.
I experienced rear main seal leaking despite the new setup.
When I switched from 10W-30 to:
Brad Penn Motor Oil, Grade 1, Semi-synthetic,
10W40, ZDDP Enhanced the leaking stopped.
The thicker weight oil is available from summit
Presume it may help with Val's existing rope seal
Certainly if it did, it would save a lot of money and effort either
doing the seal replacement with the engine in or out.
Just saying! Don't have much to lose in trying.
This thicker weight oil works in all seasons except cold winters.
Most of us put our beasts (brutes) in hibernation during the cold months
Sent from Yahoo Mail for
On Wednesday, August 24, 2016, 9:00 AM, John
Nowosacki jsnowosacki@xxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300]
If you're really good (and I'm not) you can potentially deal
with this with the engine in the car. You have to move steering parts
out of the way, loosen motor mounts enough to get oil pan out of the way,
and then do the job from under the car by loosening/removing bearing
cap(s). I drove all the way to Skowhegan ME to have it done by
Dominick Rinaldi many years ago on my G coupe. That's when I found out
from him that "someone had been in there before", because my G had a windage
tray in the oil pan! It cost significantly less having this done in
the car by him than it would have to pay for engine
Local engine folks all wanted the engine out, and then of course they
said they might as well do a bunch of other stuff since it was out and on
the stand, but it was like $300 instead of $3000 by just having Dom do the
seal. I believe that car ended in 17087 as VIN number. Would be
interested in knowing where that car wound up. I sold it to a person
in CT, who I believe then sold it to someone in PA?