These cars are thinly traded so firm values are hard to determine. Condition, options, color, corrosion of body and frame and quality of collision repair impact what an interested buyer might pay.
Several sites show prices and you can buy an “Old Cars Weekly” that will show another organization’s thoughts.
http://www.nadaguides.com/Classic-Cars/1964/Chrysler/300/Sport-2-Door-Convertible/Values $7,200/$13,750/$25,000 Low/Avg/Hi
https://www.hagerty.com/apps/valuationtools/1964-Chrysler-300?id=107336 $14,400 to $43,600 #4 to #1
If the odometer reading can be confirmed, that would be a plus. Long-time history and provenance, also. Be sure to dig up any sales, service, registration documents for the car. Play in steering would be unusual for that mileage—quite likely second time around. Ditto, the engine rebuild. Bias-ply tires will cause the car to wander more than modern radial-ply tires but will not contribute to “play” in the steering wheel. The steering box can readily be replaced with a rebuilt box. No A/C, apparently. The top pump is protected by a circuit breaker behind the LH kick panel and the power windows are protected by the same circuit breaker. Easy access to the pump behind the back-seat cushion. Disconnect the two-wire connector to the pump and try the switch. If it still pops the breaker, the problem would seem to be in the switch or connecting wiring. If not, the pump motor may need replacing. P/W switch in the door can be problematic. When the main switch in the door does not operate any windows, see if any of the other three switches will operate its window. Power windows, top and seats all operate from an “always hot” wire from the battery side of the circuit breaker.
Gas gauge and temperature indicator operate from a problematic and crude constant voltage device in the fuel gauge. If temp gauge seems to be working, the problem is probably with the sending unit in the tank or associated wiring. The fuel signal also comes in to the instrument panel via a printed circuit board. Pin connectors to the five-wire connector can loosen from the PC board and be in need of a snugging up with careful tapping the flare on the base of the pin.
I can help you with decoding the data plate, found on the LHS of the cowl-visible from outside when driver’s door is open. You might be able to fill in the data on the table below.
VIN: 8243_ _ _ _ _ _
If you get real lucky you might find the “TRACK SHEET” stuck between the springs and the fabric of the rear seat back. These are quite interesting and tell the entire tale of the content of the car. I’d like a copy if you find one.
Pictures cannot be sent through the server, but I’d love to receive pictures of your car at my e-mail address. A few pix of mine are attached.
These are beautiful and fairly modern cars with many parts being available at parts stores. Specialty items and services are also available. Thank you for continuing to take care of and upgrade your convertible. Spring is coming—enjoy the rides in safety and reliability.
1964 300K Convertible
It seems that we have some very knowledgeable people here, so what I'd like to know is an average worth of my car.... 1964 300 convertible, 383 auto console shift, family owned since '66, daily driver until '77, pretty much garaged since after repairs made from an accident. last 16 years or so the only time the car was run is when I would visit and clear all the junk off it and drive it around alittle....
Car is pretty much complete, runs and drives
carpet has been replaced, front seats recovered late 80's
engine freshened in the late 80's, didn't need it, I think dad was bored, lol, Odometer shows 31k, no idea if its accurate, less than 1000 miles on engine since rebuild
new master cylinder and booster
car turns heads wherever I drive it, would have added pictures here but don't know how here
all original EXCEPT rf fender, trunk lid, and maybe the hood, not sure on that one
power windows/switches work when they want too
gas gauge just quit working
top does not go up or down, need to check the hydraulics, blows the fuse when you hit the switch
and the big problem I'm trying to solve right now, she wanders like a drunken sailor, lots of play in the steering, adjusted the steering box as much as could and its better, but still a handful, caster/camber issue maybe?
Basically the car is basically as it was when last driven in 77' I have no desire to restore it to concours quality, my goal is to make it a reliable driver where everything works.
Soooooo, what do y'all think?
Posted by: "Rich Barber" <c300@xxxxxxx>
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