i agree totally with Rob ,and Jeff I belueve these special speedo cable lubes are a sad joke .
After all they did dry up and screw up the cable , ( in both senses) often snapping it . So using again goes to same place again
Someone in 1920’s on , made $ selling “ required” snake oil speedo lube mix
( laugh) to automakers as “ needed “ , and especially to conscientious aftermarket people with a broken cable .
I admit to still having a can from back when I was more vulnerable to bs . ( Ok I also admit I miss those days )
Looking at it , it seems to be graphite particles in a solvent suspension not unlike WD 40 or Kroil but with dirty messy graphite in it (an aside , I find Kroil way better than WD40 to free bolts ) .
Personally , I hang up the cable and shield vertically over a pail and put my “present go to “ mobil 1 75 W synthetic rear axle oil in , it stays put .ATF is about 10 W and will leak out a bit but 100x better than speedo lube . I do not clean cable or housing excessively beyond wiping off , sometimes running solvent through — the thinking being whatever graphite is in there is picked up by new lube . All greases are out these days except under the car wheel bearing or high quality suspension grease , used elsewhere — and if you have white lube throw it out . Now!
It turns to a yellow rock (see our wiper motor , power seat clutches , door catches locks etc ) .
By the way the same 75w treatment can bring back rear E brake and push button cables too .
Just did both speedo and rear brake cables on 37 packard it is like new .It Had a snapped speedo cable at trans , shield was still full of the dried graphite mess , and it had locked internal speedo gears full of hard grease . And a slight kink at trans
I did this on my 67 dart , 120 k
miles / 30 years ago , still perfect .. . this also eliminates the wild speedo swings you get with stick / slip snapping and noise at high speed , the Dart problem —- real oil lubrication helps damp it .
Be absolutely sure the outer shield has no kinks ( due to incompetent bumbling mechanics bending it too sharp ) or internal rough places typically at trans end as roughness or spurs inside will chew up the spinning part very fast . I run a long drill in after straightening out any trans end deformation in a vise to smooth it out . Even a broken shield can be fixed by crimping a 2” long piece of slit copper tubing over it set in JB weld . Cover in shrink tube looks better than a new one .
john G
Sent from my iPhone
On Jul 3, 2023, at 11:46 PM, Rob Kern <robkern@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
Many years ago Jeff Carter told me to us type F automatic transmission fluid as a cable lubricant. Two reasons: it can withstand a high temperature environment and secondly it does not dry oiut and get dense and become pearl like and corkscrew up to the speedometer head and raise havoc there. It has worked swell with two speedometer cables! Hope this helps1 300’ly, Rob Kern
On Jul 3, 2023, at 5:32 PM, Ron Waters <ronbo97@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
Well, I may just have to order some of that ‘groil’. LOL !
Thanks John.
Ron
It’s more viscous than an oil but less than a grease. I pulled the cable out almost all the way and dabbed on and worked it by fingers. It will drip but not like oil drips.
I’ll call it “groil” 😁 — half way between grease and oil!
John
Hey John –
Is this a grease, or is it like 3-in-1 oil with graphite suspended in the oil ?
Ron
I just lubed my ‘56 speedo with product below. Made in Michigan.
Is a blackish color so maybe some graphite in it although they don’t list ingredients. Seemed to do the job. Got it either on Amazon or EBay.
Hey Folks –
What does everyone use for speedometer cable lubricant ? This is the actual cable lube, not the lube for the wick at the speedo head.
Years ago, NAPA sold a product called Lub-A-Cable, which is a graphite cable lubricant. Also, Dorman had a product, 9-1812 or 03344, which is the same thing. But neither seem to be available now. A call to Dorman said that they have none in stock.
Ron
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