Re: {Chrysler 300} 300B wire harness recommendations
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Re: {Chrysler 300} 300B wire harness recommendations



hi Justin ,
you might consider leaving things alone , and  spot repair of ends or wires  same gauge and color under hood — if needed — if plastic wire and  insulation is generally good,
then add a fusible link  ( sold  for fords , use the larger of the two ) or a  “ mega fuse” which is a large auto fuse with a molded holder ( e bay) use 50 A size .
That will protect against main harness fires .

I have used Y n Z twice on 2 Packards , —- But some design confusion on adding turn signals — they offer that . Was not done right , they assume adding a third light at rear to park and stop  (So add  4 lights to car) instead of using brake lights ( Right …!  ) . I changed it myself and fed back , — at first some bs , later owner turned out to be a good guy sent me ends etc . Said he had let an employee go over mistakes back then . Would  do again ,beautiful looking ….  Documentation / wiring diagrams could be better . ..  and I hear good things about Rhode Island too . 

It is a bigger job than you think to change a whole harness , dressing wires  etc . Figuring out variations , optional items etc etc You DO  have to change it all with rubber insulation   
With plastic , decision is a lot more nuanced . if insulation not dried and  cracking I d leave it . But add fuse . 
Another aspect is our cars have ?4-5 sub  harnesses , change what needs it . Doors ? due to flex ? 

Repair of under hood end not too bad , seldom stuff is bad under the dash—-  the hard part . Dashes were built and wired out of the car .. Unless badly messed with 
Exception is ammeter , be sure nuts UNDER connections are tight to gauge body . 

Find  out typical failures and secure that . On ours , power wires cutting on sharp edges of sheet metal stampings at upper drivers kick panel was the cause of two F disasters I have seen , Problem is in all 300’s? and add in incompetently done repairs especially changing ignition switch , typically over lost key . Locksmith can rekey cylinder it comes out , leave electrics  in back alone 

A Fuse would have saved 3  cars  . I think battery disconnects do little , add problems , as fires don’t start with a car sitting in a garage — in general . Fuse does what you want ,,sitting or driving 
jg 


Sent from my iPhone

On Aug 28, 2023, at 12:10 PM, 'John Lazenby' via Chrysler 300 Club International <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:


Justin,

I replaced all four looms in our 300B when doing the body off rest.  Source was YnZ and their products are good and very much like original right down to the color codes.  I also used them when restoring our 1955 Imperial Newport.

Our '55 NYer T&C has a Rhode Island loom in it and also has given excellent service.  Color codes are once again very close to original.

Last time I checked RI was a bit less costly, but it is up to you as you will only do it once.

John Lazenby

On Monday, August 28, 2023 at 08:59:34 AM PDT, Justin I <captjj28@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:


Hi Club,

There has been a rash of wiring related fires in the classic car circles that I associate with, so I figure it's time to stop tempting fate. 

I found a few recos in the ForwardLook discussion forums, but I can't seem to figure out how to search the 300 listserver archives.  The two outfits I've found so far are:

YnZ's Yesterday's Parts
Rhode Island Wiring Service Inc.

Does anyone have first hand experience with either of these vendors, or are there other recommendations?  I do not have a "show" car, but I'd like something that is plug-n-play (mostly) and something that looks more/less original (cloth covers).  Please let me know!

-Justin in PA

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