RE: {Chrysler 300} 1963 Chrysler 300 Rear End Leak

I explored replacing the seal on my Desoto. But the shop manual said that the bolt needed to be torqued to about 240 ft/lbs. Trying to do that without a lift may be near impossible. So this is going to be farmed out when I have the rear end rebuilt by a shop.

Ron

From: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx On Behalf Of Loren Nelson
Sent: Sunday, September 17, 2023 9:21 PM
To: Gary <garythepartsdoc@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Cc: Mark Lindahl <mplindahl@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>; chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: {Chrysler 300} 1963 Chrysler 300 Rear End Leak

I just tried to do that seal on my 1961 G in my garage. I jacked it up until the wheels were just off the floor but the G has a small emergency brake at the back of the transmission. When I disconnected the drive shaft the rear wheels turned with the nut on the U joint yoke that needs to be loosened to get to the seal. You won't have that problem because I can see the E brake cables in your picture. ( I used my power seat to hold the brake pedal down on the G.) I had a borrowed 3/4 ratchet wrench and about a 2 ft. cheater pipe for it. The mufflers limit the upward lift on the wrench and the floor limits the downward stroke. The result is a limited stroke that can only be increased by raising the car. The problem is compounded by the axles that act like torsion bars and cushion torque put on the nut. That could possibly be fixed by a large pipe wrench on the U joint yoke. Note: An impact wrench is not recommended as it can cause dings in the gears that will cause a whining noise. The pipe wrench and the Impact could work and not damage the rear end.

At this point, I decided that the friend (he is a very good friend) whom I had borrowed the wrench from also had a lift and that it would probably be easier and safer to use his lift and a longer cheater pipe.

Good luck, but it is not as easy as it seems and that nut has probably been on there since 1963.

Loren Nelson 300G in N.Georgia

On Sun, Sep 17, 2023 at 7:24 PM Gary <garythepartsdoc@xxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

Mark,

Should not be job you cannot handle at home. With DS and yoke off, you punch
hole into seal case and pry out. Apply a small amount of silicon around new
seal, re-install. I recommend a block of wood (2x4) or steel plate to drive
seal into housing. You will need hole for it to go around pinion shaft.

Good luck,
Gary

-----Original Message-----
From: Mark Lindahl
Sent: Saturday, September 16, 2023 1:08 PM
To: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: {Chrysler 300} 1963 Chrysler 300 Rear End Leak

Hello All,

I have noticed grease stains (quite a bit - 9 inch stain on cardboard)
coming from what looks like the rear end seal. See attached pictures.
This is not a Sure-Grip.

1) I have a shop manual, but how hard is it to replace this seal in my
garage? Scale 1-10

2) I have basic tools, but nothing special. I am trying to not tear it apart
and then have to tow the car to a mechanic.

3) What is best guess $$$ to have a local mechanic do this work? I am just
trying to get a ballpark idea so I don’t get ripped off.

4). The grease stain on the back side is probably the grease getting drawn
back by wind due to driving.

5) Standard old school 90W grease or something newer? I see the amount is 4
pints.

Thank you,
Mark Lindahl

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