Re: Race Shocks - was: Norwalk Mo-Power Event DAy 2
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Re: Race Shocks - was: Norwalk Mo-Power Event DAy 2



Hi Don,

Interesting.  I have adjustable Rancho shocks on my 71 Bronco.
Probably the same.

- Jim
Jim Altemose, Long Island, NY
'63 Polara 500 (Max Wedge)
'63 Polara 500 (383)
'65 Belvedere I (Street Wedge)
'71 Bronco


On Sun, Sep 16, 2012 at 7:08 AM, Donald Gallimore <dongallimore@xxxxxxx> wrote:
> The Calvert shocks are very easy to adjust.  The have a dial on them with
> settings from 1 to 9. Just reach under the car and turn the dial to whatever
> setting you want. BTW - these used to be sold under the Rancho name and Calvert
> bought the line.
>
> I had Competition Engineering's 3 way adjustable shocks and to adjust them, you
> had to remove it from the lower mount, compress the shock and rotate it.  Pretty
> time consuming.
>
> Akron Don Gallimore
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----
>> From: MO <micher@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>> To: The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse
>><1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>> Sent: Sun, September 16, 2012 1:25:04 AM
>> Subject: Re: Norwalk Mo-Power Event DAy 2
>>
>> Thanks for the report Don, I like to hear what folks are trying and
>> how those changes work out for them.  Interesting on the shocks, are
>> they easily adjusted? ................MO
>>
>> On Sep 15, 9:47 pm, Donald Gallimore <dongallim...@xxxxxxx> wrote:
>> > Day two is over for me but I'm sure they are still racing. Today I got three
>> > runs - two time trials and one run in the gambler race (all cars kick in $20
>>and
>> > the winner and late round cars get part of the pot)
>> >
>> > The three runs I got were 12.353, 12.349 and 12.367.  I worked on my shock
>> > settings (9 way adjustable shock) and shift RPM through the day. The shocks
>>were
>> > set too soft on the first run, being at a setting of 1 (my bad) so I cranked
>> > them to a 7 per Michael Beard's suggestion.  Reduced my 60 foot by .02
>>seconds
>> > on that alone. On the shift, it was very obvious to me that the car did not
>>want
>> > to pull well from 5600 to 5800 so I changed the shift point to 5600 on my
>> > elimination run and picked up about 0.08 seconds as a direct result of that
>> > change.  Learned that a poor burnout (in 3rd rather than second then 3rd)
>>will
>> > hurt the launch by about .04 seconds and that's was lead to the loss in
>> > elimination in spite of the gain by reducing the shift points.
>> >
>> > Had a thrash on the carb when I stripped one of the treads in the carb body
>>for
>> > the bolt that holds the float bowls to the carb body. Ended up spending $50
>>on a
>> > heli-coil kit and necessary tools. Plus, in drilling out the hole for the
>> > heli-coil, I ended up windowing the hole to the outside of the throttle body.
>>JB
>> > weld to the rescue with a stick of epoxy that cured in one hour.  Just made
>>the
>> > call for my first time trail.  Lessons learned - put a drop of oil on the
>>bolt
>> > before you put that steel into an aluminum body and carry a heli-coil kit -
>>you
>> > will screw this up like I did if you work on a Holley type carb long enough.
>> >
>> > Now I'm pondering if the carb is too big as others have suggested and if the
>> > 3800 stall converter may be too much for my car given that the engine will
>>drop
>> > below the stall speed after the shift.  Need to produce power at higher RPM
>>to
>> > not do this. Something in the 6200-6400 range.
>> >
>> > Tomorrow the real eliminations start. I'm running Sportsman class which has
>>350
>> > or so cars in it - takes nine rounds to win it. While the car has been
>> > incredible consistent today, the inexperienced drive (Me) makes that a tough
>> > challenge. But you never know as I went four rounds in the past.
>> >
>> > Akron Don Gallimore
>> > '65 Belvedere 440 powered
>>
>> --
>> --
>> --
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>
> --
> --
> --
> Please address private email -- email of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, email your parts/car transactions and negotiations, as well as other personal messages, only to the intended recipient. Do not just press "reply" and send your email to everyone using the general '62-'65 Clubhouse public email address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine-tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
>
> 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
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-- 
-- 
--
Please address private email -- email of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, email your parts/car transactions and negotiations, as well as other personal messages, only to the intended recipient. Do not just press "reply" and send your email to everyone using the general '62-'65 Clubhouse public email address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine-tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!

1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse" group.
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