Race Shocks - was: Norwalk Mo-Power Event DAy 2

[Donald Gallimore <dongallimore@xxxxxxx>]

The Calvert shocks are very easy to adjust.  The have a dial on them with 
settings from 1 to 9. Just reach under the car and turn the dial to whatever 
setting you want. BTW - these used to be sold under the Rancho name and Calvert 
bought the line.

I had Competition Engineering's 3 way adjustable shocks and to adjust them, you 
had to remove it from the lower mount, compress the shock and rotate it.  Pretty 
time consuming.
 
Akron Don Gallimore



----- Original Message ----
> From: MO <micher@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> To: The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Mail List Clubhouse 
><1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Sun, September 16, 2012 1:25:04 AM
> Subject: Re: Norwalk Mo-Power Event DAy 2
> 
> Thanks for the report Don, I like to hear what folks are trying and
> how those changes work out for them.  Interesting on the shocks, are
> they easily adjusted? ................MO
> 
> On Sep 15, 9:47 pm, Donald Gallimore <dongallim...@xxxxxxx> wrote:
> > Day two is over for me but I'm sure they are still racing. Today I got three
> > runs - two time trials and one run in the gambler race (all cars kick in $20 
>and
> > the winner and late round cars get part of the pot)
> >
> > The three runs I got were 12.353, 12.349 and 12.367.  I worked on my shock
> > settings (9 way adjustable shock) and shift RPM through the day. The shocks 
>were
> > set too soft on the first run, being at a setting of 1 (my bad) so I cranked
> > them to a 7 per Michael Beard's suggestion.  Reduced my 60 foot by .02 
>seconds
> > on that alone. On the shift, it was very obvious to me that the car did not 
>want
> > to pull well from 5600 to 5800 so I changed the shift point to 5600 on my
> > elimination run and picked up about 0.08 seconds as a direct result of that
> > change.  Learned that a poor burnout (in 3rd rather than second then 3rd) 
>will
> > hurt the launch by about .04 seconds and that's was lead to the loss in
> > elimination in spite of the gain by reducing the shift points.
> >
> > Had a thrash on the carb when I stripped one of the treads in the carb body 
>for
> > the bolt that holds the float bowls to the carb body. Ended up spending $50 
>on a
> > heli-coil kit and necessary tools. Plus, in drilling out the hole for the
> > heli-coil, I ended up windowing the hole to the outside of the throttle body. 
>JB
> > weld to the rescue with a stick of epoxy that cured in one hour.  Just made 
>the
> > call for my first time trail.  Lessons learned - put a drop of oil on the 
>bolt
> > before you put that steel into an aluminum body and carry a heli-coil kit - 
>you
> > will screw this up like I did if you work on a Holley type carb long enough.
> >
> > Now I'm pondering if the carb is too big as others have suggested and if the
> > 3800 stall converter may be too much for my car given that the engine will 
>drop
> > below the stall speed after the shift.  Need to produce power at higher RPM 
>to
> > not do this. Something in the 6200-6400 range.
> >
> > Tomorrow the real eliminations start. I'm running Sportsman class which has 
>350
> > or so cars in it - takes nine rounds to win it. While the car has been
> > incredible consistent today, the inexperienced drive (Me) makes that a tough
> > challenge. But you never know as I went four rounds in the past.
> >
> > Akron Don Gallimore
> > '65 Belvedere 440 powered
> 
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