Re: IML: RE:'56 & '55 Ignition Wires

[RandalPark@xxxxxxx]

I don't see how the wires can be connected to the spark plugs if the bake-a-lite towers aren't used.

Paul W.

In an email dated 2/6/2005 2:11:48 pm GMT Daylight time, "Jan Harmonson" <jharmonson@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> writes:

>Hi
>
>I just installed some Taylor wires on my 1955 sedan, together with plugs,
>cap and rotor. These are silicon wires that come with the insulater on them.
>It is not factory but works well. I had to cut and do the distributor ends
>but it was no big deal. I bought them on ebay for about $40.00
>
>Jan in Ojai CA
>1955 sedan
>----- Original Message ----- 
>From: <RandalPark@xxxxxxx>
>To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>Sent: Thursday, June 02, 2005 9:03 AM
>Subject: IML: RE:'56 Ignition Wires
>
>
>> That brings up an interesting point.
>>
>> Since purchasing my '56 Imperial in 1971, I have had to make my own
>ignition wires each time I have done a tune up (at least 10-15 times over
>the years). That is because the spark plug "tower" connectors have to be
>used over and over again, and are essential to the proper installation of
>the wires. This is not difficult, but it is time consuming.
>>
>> Does Andy Bernbaum sell a pre-cut, preassembled set for '56??
>>
>> Paul W.
>>
>> In an email dated 2/6/2005 12:02:57 pm GMT Daylight time,
>JCantor791@xxxxxxx writes:
>>
>> >Dick,
>> >
>> >I understand the circuit NOW and was headed on the right track yesterday
>when
>> >sitting at my computer typing in that description but I didn't understand
>it
>> >last week when I was testing it. If I had, I never would have bothered
>> >looking at it as the car isn't having any of the performance problems you
>describe.
>> > I had simply been looking at the resister since the coil is definitely
>on
>> >its way out with low resistance on the secondary and signs of some oil
>leakage.
>> >
>> >BTW, on a related note, I just wanted to put in a moderately good word
>for
>> >Mr. Bernbaum. While they're customer service may be a bit gruff, I was
>> >extremely impressed with their speed and pricing. The tune-up kit, coil,
>and wires
>> >I finished ordering last Thursday at 5pm were on my door step by the same
>time
>> >Friday. And I paid less for all of that than just wires and a coil would
>> >have cost me elsewhere.
>> >
>> >Jeff
>> >'56 Sedan
>> >Trenton, NJ
>> >
>> >
>> >From: "Dick Benjamin" <dickb@xxxxxxxxx>
>> >Subject: RE: IML: 56 Ballist Resistor
>> >Date: Wed, 1 Jun 2005 20:47:42 -0700
>> >Reply-To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>> >This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
>> >
>> >------=_NextPart_000_0012_01C566EB.293AE340
>> >Content-Type: text/plain;
>> > charset="us-ascii"
>> >Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
>> >
>> >You understand the circuit exactly correctly. The higher resistance will
>> >cause the coil to operate below the design primary voltage; however it is
>> >probably not going to show up in the car's performance except under
>unusual
>> >circumstances.
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >The ballast resistor is out of the circuit during start-up, so it won't
>> >affect the engine starting.
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >The symptom of a bad (open circuit) ballast resistor is that the engine
>will
>> >start normally, but stall as soon as you go back to the "run" position on
>> >the starter switch. If this is what is happening, you might have a bad
>> >ballast resistor, but a more likely explanation is in the wiring or the
>> >switch itself, or possibly even the starter solenoid.
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >A ballast resistor is the simplest of electrical parts - if you have a
>VOM,
>> >just measure the resistance. If it reads very low (under an OHM), it is
>OK,
>> >look elsewhere for your problem. If you don't have a VOM, use your test
>> >light to see if the bulb lights when you touch the coil end of the
>ballast
>> >resistor with the key in the run position. If it lights, even dimly, the
>> >resistor is probably OK.
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >Dick Benjamin (retired (since 1979!) Electrical Engineer, still with a
>few
>> >remaining functioning brain cells)
>> >
>>
>>
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>
>
>
>
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