Re: IML: RE:'56 & '55 Ignition Wires

["Jan Harmonson" <jharmonson@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Hi

They have some kind of composite (plastic) boots that replace the stock ones
and something like foam rubber at the bottom end as well. The boots have a
larger plastic ring about 2/3 up that fits tightly inside the tube to keep
all nice and snug. They really look much like the original and work quite
well . The car seems to like them a lot.

Jan in Ojai, CA
1955 Sedan
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <RandalPark@xxxxxxx>
To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Thursday, June 02, 2005 2:24 PM
Subject: Re: IML: RE:'56 & '55 Ignition Wires


> I don't see how the wires can be connected to the spark plugs if the
bake-a-lite towers aren't used.
>
> Paul W.
>
> In an email dated 2/6/2005 2:11:48 pm GMT Daylight time, "Jan Harmonson"
<jharmonson@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> writes:
>
> >Hi
> >
> >I just installed some Taylor wires on my 1955 sedan, together with plugs,
> >cap and rotor. These are silicon wires that come with the insulater on
them.
> >It is not factory but works well. I had to cut and do the distributor
ends
> >but it was no big deal. I bought them on ebay for about $40.00
> >
> >Jan in Ojai CA
> >1955 sedan
> >----- Original Message ----- 
> >From: <RandalPark@xxxxxxx>
> >To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> >Sent: Thursday, June 02, 2005 9:03 AM
> >Subject: IML: RE:'56 Ignition Wires
> >
> >
> >> That brings up an interesting point.
> >>
> >> Since purchasing my '56 Imperial in 1971, I have had to make my own
> >ignition wires each time I have done a tune up (at least 10-15 times over
> >the years). That is because the spark plug "tower" connectors have to be
> >used over and over again, and are essential to the proper installation of
> >the wires. This is not difficult, but it is time consuming.
> >>
> >> Does Andy Bernbaum sell a pre-cut, preassembled set for '56??
> >>
> >> Paul W.
> >>
> >> In an email dated 2/6/2005 12:02:57 pm GMT Daylight time,
> >JCantor791@xxxxxxx writes:
> >>
> >> >Dick,
> >> >
> >> >I understand the circuit NOW and was headed on the right track
yesterday
> >when
> >> >sitting at my computer typing in that description but I didn't
understand
> >it
> >> >last week when I was testing it. If I had, I never would have bothered
> >> >looking at it as the car isn't having any of the performance problems
you
> >describe.
> >> > I had simply been looking at the resister since the coil is
definitely
> >on
> >> >its way out with low resistance on the secondary and signs of some oil
> >leakage.
> >> >
> >> >BTW, on a related note, I just wanted to put in a moderately good word
> >for
> >> >Mr. Bernbaum. While they're customer service may be a bit gruff, I was
> >> >extremely impressed with their speed and pricing. The tune-up kit,
coil,
> >and wires
> >> >I finished ordering last Thursday at 5pm were on my door step by the
same
> >time
> >> >Friday. And I paid less for all of that than just wires and a coil
would
> >> >have cost me elsewhere.
> >> >
> >> >Jeff
> >> >'56 Sedan
> >> >Trenton, NJ
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >From: "Dick Benjamin" <dickb@xxxxxxxxx>
> >> >Subject: RE: IML: 56 Ballist Resistor
> >> >Date: Wed, 1 Jun 2005 20:47:42 -0700
> >> >Reply-To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> >> >This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
> >> >
> >> >------=_NextPart_000_0012_01C566EB.293AE340
> >> >Content-Type: text/plain;
> >> > charset="us-ascii"
> >> >Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
> >> >
> >> >You understand the circuit exactly correctly. The higher resistance
will
> >> >cause the coil to operate below the design primary voltage; however it
is
> >> >probably not going to show up in the car's performance except under
> >unusual
> >> >circumstances.
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >The ballast resistor is out of the circuit during start-up, so it
won't
> >> >affect the engine starting.
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >The symptom of a bad (open circuit) ballast resistor is that the
engine
> >will
> >> >start normally, but stall as soon as you go back to the "run" position
on
> >> >the starter switch. If this is what is happening, you might have a bad
> >> >ballast resistor, but a more likely explanation is in the wiring or
the
> >> >switch itself, or possibly even the starter solenoid.
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >A ballast resistor is the simplest of electrical parts - if you have a
> >VOM,
> >> >just measure the resistance. If it reads very low (under an OHM), it
is
> >OK,
> >> >look elsewhere for your problem. If you don't have a VOM, use your
test
> >> >light to see if the bulb lights when you touch the coil end of the
> >ballast
> >> >resistor with the key in the run position. If it lights, even dimly,
the
> >> >resistor is probably OK.
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >Dick Benjamin (retired (since 1979!) Electrical Engineer, still with a
> >few
> >> >remaining functioning brain cells)
> >> >
> >>
> >>
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> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
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>
>
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