Re: IML: window motors

[Crownking <crownking62@xxxxxxxxx>]

Mikey:

Our experiences differ markedly on this.  I have generally found the brushes on '62s to be bad along with the residue from the worn out brushes being deposited in the slots of the copper gizmo on the end of the shaft.  I use an exacto knife to clean that residue out--when they are full they short the windings and the motor won't turn.  I then find a suitable brush at Ace Hardware for a quarter and polish the copper up with a pencil eraser.  This has worked every time but one when the motor windings turned out to be fried.  Same procedure has revived numerous electrical motors on various tools, too.  I have also had to perform the same procedure on all the window motors and convertible top motor on my driver Lebaron convertible.  All five had bad brushes and a couple had failed brush springs.  I used  ink pen springs for those fixes. 

 

By the way, can you be more specific about the long driver you use to re-assemble.  I have resorted to using an 18" long twistie tie and scotch tape and have found nothing better.  Still looks Rube Goldbergesque and makes me feel silly doing it!  It never works exactly as I intend and is cause for much grumbling and snide comments from my creativity-challenged youngsters.

Oh, thanks for using the Norelco reference in your spoof of the various years.  Still seems the best descriptor for that era of Imps for my money.  Not getting many votes in the survey though.  I noted too that the Budd Brake descriptor did not even make the survey.  Sourpusses.

mike and linda sutton <mikanlin62@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

> The 62 has no setscrew or anything on the power window motor. The motor has 
> nothing but a little rubber coupling between it and the gearbox. A simple 
> strap holds it to the body, undo the strap and remove the motor...takes 
> longer to get to it than it does to remove it.
>
> Most of the motors in the 62 and 63s I have encountered were Prestolite 
> made, very simple in construction. A plain bushing at the drive end, 
> brushes in the other end. Two thru bolts hold it all together. Simply 
> scribe a line on all 3 main pieces before removing the thru bolts, then 
> remove the bolts, remove the drive end ( shaft end ) and remove the armature 
> out the drive direction. You may have to wiggle things a bit, you can slip 
> the commutator end out a bit and that will help you keep an eye on the 
> brushes and brush springs, but they are usually gummed up
>  anyway.
>
> There are small washers/ shims at each end of the armature, at each end 
> plate...just make sure you put them at the same end they came out of. As 
> soon as you remove the end plates you will see them, or as you remove the 
> end plate at the drive end and the armature will have them on the other end 
> when you remove it.
>
> Once the armature and drive end are out, the commutator end plate and main 
> body with the field coils are left. It is usually not necessary or 
> advisable in most cases to desolder the drive end from the main body but it 
> is possible. 90 percent of the motors I have taken apart needed the 
> commutator ends cleaned, the brushes cleaned and in general just a good 
> cleaning and some tlc.
>
> I have found that chucking the armature in a drill, and using commutator 
> paper ( a form of abrasive cloth ) will get you there nearly every time. In 
> some serious cases where the brushes left a deep impression in the armature
>  
> I held a small fine file against the commutator only long enough to remove 
> the depression . ( Its actually a high spot from where the brushes never 
> wear that you remove ) Then follow up with commutator paper.
>
> Once thats done, a good cleaning with a commercial spray electrical cleaner 
> or brakleen is next. Let dry thoroughly, and get a dab of suitable grease 
> on the bushings on each end...not too much on the commutator end or it will 
> get into the brushes. You can also take a very fine point file or similar 
> and clean the contact points in the commutator end plate, as they are a 
> thermal protection for the motor..if it stalls and the points get hot, they 
> open and halt current flow.
>
> Now the fun part, you insert the armature in from the drive end, and you get 
> to put the brush springs and brushes down in the holder and then carefully 
> slide the commutator in between the brushes. Its not easy for the first 10 
> or so times, then you
>  will discover a system that works best. I hold it in 
> one hand, use a long very thin driver to sneak the commutator over the 
> brushes in increments, then it will just slip right into place.
>
> Install the drive end, tighten the thru bolts and youre done. I like to take 
> my drill and chuck the drive shaft into it again, and turn it each way a bit 
> before powering it up, helps reseat the brushes,. but those are seldom an 
> issue. I have never seen a motor yet with over half the brush worn away. 
> Go hook up a 12v ground to the case and alternately hook up 12v positive to 
> each power lead...but not at the same time ok. Its important to remember 
> the ground is thru the case and only one power lead gets 12v at a time.
>
> Thats all there is to know about the 61-63 window motors. If you need help, 
> just email
>
> Mikey
> 62 Crown Coupe
>
>
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