Re: IML: Metalized Paint
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Re: IML: Metalized Paint



I visited Don's shop a few months ago.  He is a chemical engineer by trade and has his shop set up behind his house.  He was very candid as to how he 'metallized' the pieces and he had several examples of completed jobs there that I inspected.  I would challenge most people to tell the difference between real chrome and Don's process.  As Tom states, it is a coating and not a plating process so I don't know if I'd use it for external pieces unless it's in a protected area (think Flitesweep dish on a 60 Imperial) but for interior stuff I'd use it in a heartbeat.  The guy is meticulous with his work.
Tom
----- Original Message -----
From: tdcox
Sent: Wednesday, June 06, 2007 11:30 AM
Subject: IML: Metalized Paint

In restoring my 56 Southampton coupe, I used a fellow that has a process that “paints” metal such that it appears as though it were chrome plated.

 

The outer, rear window sills of the coupe were so badly pitted the chrome plater refused to plate them.  The cost of casting new parts was prohibitive because of the compound angles, so I had them painted and no one ever knew until I told them.  This fellow sands the parts, uses body filler to smooth the part, applies a special base coat, then a metalized paint and then a clear coat.  Some of my parts came out with a “yellow” cast to them compared to the chrome and he is working to tone this down by using more blue in the process.  Most folks didn’t notice the yellowing.

 

This process is ideal for interior parts and the cost is between 40-60% of chrome plating.  He did my inside door trim, the inside windshield trim, a C-pillar medallion and the gold front Imperial emblem as well as the window sills.  He is setting up to do this full time and I would recommend him highly.

 

His name is Don Pirre and he operates out of Pennsylvania.  His email address is:

 

don@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

 

If you have questions, feel free to email me or contact him directly.

 

Tom Cox

 

 

 

 


From: mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxm [mailto:mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxm] On Behalf Of Dick Benjamin
Sent: Monday, July 17, 2006 11:11 AM
To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: RE: IML: Voltage limiter

 

You can also replace the internal gauge regulator with a separate unit, mounted anywhere under the dash; but you have to do a little bit of re-wiring to install it.  Kens’ suggestion is easier, if you have a good spare fuel gauge.

 

NAPA sells a separate unit under part number IR9, as I recall – it is called an “instrument regulator” and is also known as a 5 volt power supply or regulator.

 

It is a simple three terminal device: 12 volts in, ground for the case, and 5 volts out – which goes to the fuel, oil and temp gauges.  The ammeter does not require the 5 volts.


Dick

 


From: mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxm [mailto:mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxm] On Behalf Of Ken Lang
Sent: Sunday, July 16, 2006 9:10 PM
To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: RE: IML: Voltage limiter

 

The voltage regulator for the gauges is cleverly hidden inside the fuel gauge.  If you have the spare panel with a good fuel gauge, just swap it out.

 

Someone had mentioned some time back about a place that restores these units.  Unfortunately, it was one of the many posts that fell victim to the ‘delete’ key.

 

Ken

67 Crown 4 Dr Ht

 

 


From: mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxm [mailto:mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxm] On Behalf Of DON SAVARD
Sent: Sunday, July 16, 2006 8:18 PM
To: imp
Subject: IML: Voltage limiter

 

Hi all,

 Working on my 1967 Sedan and the Fuel, Temp and Oil Gauges do not move off empty. The shop manual refers to a voltage limiter on the instrument panel as the likely culprit. I do not find one on my instrument panel or the spare I have. Anybody out there seen this critter and where would it be?

 Thank

Don Savard


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