RE: IML: Hub Puller

["Frederick Joslin" <fljoslin@xxxxxxxx>]

I strongly second Kenyons comments.

 

I changed a front wheel hub on my 99 Intrepid recently.

These have the hub nut which I think is 36 mm and takes beaucoup de torque to tighten and untighten.

Cheater bars typically are in order on the socket and with aluminium wheels, where you need to remove the wheel first, you need some long stabilizer to stop the wheel from turning.

I am luck enough to have a compressor and an 1/2" impact driver.

The nut whizzed off with almost no effort on my part and no need to hold the wheel from turning. 

Using the correct tool can make a dramatic difference.

 

Another tool which is very useful is a long floor jack. I have one which will slide all the way under the back of my 69 Lebaron and allow me to jack up the car on the rear axle without really bending over. I sure like that!! 

----- Original Message -----
From: "Kenyon Wills"
To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: RE: IML: Hub Puller
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2007 10:48:46 -0700 (PDT)


I am intensely averse to Hammers, manpower, and
extra-long levers to remove stubborn hubs.

An electric or pneumatic impact wrench applies the
same or greater force in tens, hundreds, or thousands
of strkes, all in a form that does not risk injury to
yourself or the car.

Swinging a big hammer or jumping off the roof as one
poster did just don't make sense to me.


Not having such a tool is not a good excuse for not
using it. Over the years, multiple people have
written in about having trouble getting their drums
off. Seems like "almost" all of them have one thing
in common.

-K

Kenyon Wills

























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