Re: IML: '62 Brake System Repair

["Frederick Joslin" <fljoslin@xxxxxxxx>]

Hi Joe:

I recently replaced the steel lines on my 69 LeBaron Coupe.

Most lines were purchased pre formed from local suppliers. The prices here seemed to vary from about $2 for an 8" section to about $7 for a 60" section. Galvanized and powder coated versions are  available for about the same price from different suppliers. You can use couplings if needed for longer runs. This method was recently recommended in Auto Restorer magazine. Also make sure that you get Imperial (Std) fittings and not metric. The difference is not obvious until you try to connect them!

 

If you want to wrap the lines with protective wire, which is probably a good idea for exposed sections, it is pretty easy. I purchased some galvanized mild steel wire (20 gage I think) used for fencing.

Put one end of the steel brake line in the chuck of a coordless drill after you have wrapped the end in duct tape to protect the fitting. Then use the drill to wrap the wire. It takes about 1-2 min/ft.

 

Also note that if you have completely and tightly wrapped the line in this way you can bend it by hand since the steel wire wrap will stop the brake line from kinking. This is how the coil style tube benders work.

Good luck.

   

----- Original Message -----
From: "Joe Strickland"
To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: IML: '62 Brake System Repair
Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2007 07:53:23 -0400 (EDT)



Paul;

Thanks for the information. I had not tried to
search for hard lines yet. This saves me the
wasted effort. I have a friend who has the
tubing and the tools to make replacement lines.
It makes sense that if the lines have any
rust in them it might cause problems in the "T"
on the rear axle. Not having to worry about a
proportioning valve also will make the repair
go easier. All "T's" will need to be cleaned
out good.

Rob;

Thanks for the information on the vendor of
wheel and master cylinders. It is always good
to have more than one source. Andy Bernbaum
also has them.

One plus in the situation is that the front
brake shoes will not need to be replaced as
they were not subjected to excessive heat and
were replaced just before the car was taken to
the dealer for rear brake work. Front wheel
bearings will be re-packed. I plan to get new
rear shoes and all wheel cylinders on order.

Thanks to everyone for their advice. I did get
both rear drums removed yesterday by late in
the day. I don't work as fast as I used to.

The plates that the shoes fit into and the shoe
platforms need to be cleaned up to remove any
old lubricants and dust and dirt. Then new
lubricants need to be applied sparingly to the
correct places before new shoes are installed.

I am getting eager to finish the job and have
the car in running condition once more!

Joseph W. Strickland
1021 Vaughan Lane
Tioga, TX 76271-2937

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