Re: IML: Grounding a Fuel Sending Unit
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Re: IML: Grounding a Fuel Sending Unit

I just got in on this fuel sending unit story. Do you have the ground strap that clamps to the fuel line at the tank and the fuel that is in the fuel sender unit. It clamps on at both ends and they are different lengths. I have these new in two lengths.
   Were you able to check the new senders? It can be done if you have it out of the tank by putting a ground wire from a ground on a battery. Then put a light testor to the disc that the metal lines run thru and you will have a dim light when the float is at the low point. Raise the float arm up and the light will brighten as you raise it. Or, you can just remove the wire to the sendor and put a test light to it and ground to the car. Then turn on the key to either accessory or run mode without starting. Check to see if the testor lights up. This second way will not allow you to see if the light gets brighter though as the float cannot be raised while inside the tank.   joe machado

-----Original Message-----
From: YBSHORE@xxxxxxx
To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx; mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Mon, 5 Nov 2007 9:22 am
Subject: IML: Grounding a Fuel Sending Unit

Fellow Imperialist's:
    I have been 'chasing' a fuel gauge problem since I purchased my car and this weekend I decided after rereading the FSM and with Dick's written advice plus a second new unit at hand, to dig in again....though electric issues are not my strong suit.......
    The test performed below has continually shown that my sending unit is bad, and for the second time a brand new unit exhibits the same symptoms as described below [that would make three total: the original one I replaced, and two new ones].  I am thinking I have a ground issue from the tank.  I am interested in 'grounding' the fuel sending unit in the trunk to confirm 'good ground' as the fuel gauge is the only malfunctioning [symptoms are that it floats, pins, and dies irregularly] gauge in my cluster. 
    Why?, my logic:  I had this tank 'Renu'ed' shortly after purchase of the car and the 'coating' is on both the inside and the outside of the tank and I am wondering if that is interfering with the grounding system as the tank straps do not have metal-to-metal contact because of the 'Renu' process, and this coating can be seen encircling my fuel sending unit's position through the trunk access --though not on it-- Soooo, my question:  I was wondering if I could leave the positive connected to the sender and ground from the top of the sending unit itself to another spot in the trunk without fear of burnout somewhere else?  I am trying to avoid a third purchase/credit to confirm before I beg for mercy on this electrical return, whether or not the problem lies with my car....
    Any thoughts, as always, are greatly appreciated.
1956 Imperial
How To Test Whether Your Gas Gauge or Sender Unit Is Inoperable- by Dick:
1) Disconnect the battery 
2) Disconnect the wire that goes from the car to the sending unit - at the tank. 
3) Ground the wire to the chassis 
4) Re-connect the battery and turn on the key. If the tank indication is 3/4 the gauge is bad. If the indication is full the sender is bad. 
5) To fix the gauge, remove and replace 
6) To fix the sender, remove it and CAREFULLY bend the arm down so as to elevate the float and raise the reading. If all else fails, read the book, although it will probably tell you the same thing. 
BTW, it does not matter the model, all old Mopars are likely to use a similar setup. 

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