My situation now: I ran a 14ga. wire across the outlet of the tank to the chassis line, jumping the rubber fuel hose connection, polishing both lines to a shine and made the ground connection using two small stainless steel hose clamps. I then installed one of the new sender's--which I can't bench test and am assuming is good--and the gauge reads full.....BUT the fuel tank IS full and I am uncertain about the accuracy of the reading....so I removed the sender onto a rag on the trunk floor, leaving it wired/connected, and she reads empty, this no matter how I manually adjust the sender, so I re-install the sender properly with the lock ring and she again reads full......I repeated this process with the other new unit and the performance is the same: no lock ring, no reading; proper installation with the lock ring, and she reads full.....why doesn't the sending unit test through the gauge?
1) this leads me to ask does the lock ring 'complete' the circuit and thus my gauge reading, which could be proper, as opposed to being just coincidence as I have no way to establish an 'in between' reading at this time, short of draining the tank some...........
2) can my gauge be bad anyway, despite the testing process of rerouting the dedicated wire from the sending unit terminal to a chassis ground and having the gauge go directly to full indicating sender, as opposed to 3/4 which would indicate the gauge issue?
3) does the mere fact my gauge is moving by test--though only to the extremes of empty and full at this time-- give any indication of it's accuracy or whether it is at all working?
.....I do WISH I could take it out and run it down via 'field/road test', but for various reasons it is not possible presently.......Thanks all, again...
In a message dated 11/6/2007 9:59:29 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, drchallenger@xxxxxxxxxxx writes: