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Imperialists:
My situation now: I ran a 14ga. wire across the outlet of the tank
to the chassis line, jumping the rubber fuel hose connection, polishing
both lines to a shine and made the ground connection using two small
stainless steel hose clamps. I then installed one of the new
sender's--which I can't bench test and am assuming is good--and the
gauge reads full.....BUT the fuel tank IS full
and I am uncertain about the accuracy of the reading....so I removed the sender
onto a rag on the trunk floor, leaving it wired/connected, and she reads empty,
this no matter how I manually adjust the sender, so I re-install the sender
properly with the lock ring and she again reads full......I repeated this
process with the other new unit and the performance is the same: no lock
ring, no reading; proper installation with the lock ring, and she reads
full.....why doesn't the sending unit test through the
gauge?
1) this leads me to ask does the lock ring
'complete' the circuit and thus my gauge reading, which could be proper, as
opposed to being just coincidence as I have no way to establish an 'in between'
reading at this time, short of draining the tank some...........
2) can my gauge be bad anyway, despite the
testing process of rerouting the dedicated wire from the sending unit
terminal to a chassis ground and having the gauge go directly to full
indicating sender, as opposed to 3/4 which would indicate the gauge
issue?
3) does the mere fact my gauge is moving by
test--though only to the extremes of empty and full at this time-- give any
indication of it's accuracy or whether it is at all working?
.....I do WISH I could take it out and run it
down via 'field/road test', but for various reasons it is not possible
presently.......Thanks all, again...
Jack
In a message dated 11/6/2007 9:59:29 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
drchallenger@xxxxxxxxxxx writes:
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