Paul,
Why not check into a Mopar Performance crate engine?
They have 360's rated at 300 hp and 380 hp, and they
come with warranties. I think the 300 hp version is
around $3000, but you'd pay that or near that to get a
quality remanufactured 318 or have yours rebuilt to
stock specs, and you're still stuck with an anemic
engine. The 360 will bolt right in, too. As far as
emissions, I don't know, but I'd think a brand new
engine from Chrysler should meet smog requirements.
Put a decent dual exhaust on it with dual cats, that
should do it.
--- Dick Benjamin <DickB@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> You'll get a lot of advice about engine swaps for
> these cars. I am unaware
> of anything with double the HP that would fit and
> would pass our friendly
> smog specs. I too suffer with our Southern
> California smog rules.
>
> Dick Benjamin
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Paul A. Feeney <paFeeney@xxxxxxxx>
> To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Thursday, June 06, 2002 2:19 PM
> Subject: Re: IML: 82 Imp EFI won't start/run
>
>
> > Hi Dick,
> >
> > I think I'll take your advise on the compression
> check before I invest any
> > more time/money into the car. If the motor is bad,
> I'll probably just yank
> > it out and replace with something a little more
> "fun". 135HP doesn't sound
> > too good to me. This would be such a nice highway
> cruiser with about 250HP
> > or more. Nobody likes to get tailgated by kids in
> Hondas covered with
> > stickers after all. Have you heard of anyone doing
> an engine swap into one
> > of these cars? Keep in mind that I'm in So.
> California, so it will HAVE TO
> > pass smog. (we're cool on engine swaps as long as
> the engine is newer than
> > the car, and 100% of the smog for the engine
> follows into the car,
> including
> > diagnostics).
> >
> > I'll check, and probably change the oil tonight.
> At the very least I would
> > guess that the cylinders are getting "washed" with
> gas at this point.
> You're
> > right on when you said I'm getting too much fuel.
> That's why checking the
> > pumps/filters hasn't been a priority for me.
> >
> > I'll check all the connections, take them apart,
> clean them with
> electronic
> > parts cleaner, apply a little dielectric grease
> and re-connect checking
> > continuity on the pins. I don't mind doing this
> type of work, as long as I
> > only have to do it once (do it right the first
> time).
> >
> > Thanks again for the info, I may check a lot of
> this tonight and report my
> > findings in the morning.
> >
> > Paul
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Dick Benjamin" <DickB@xxxxxxxxx>
> > To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> > Sent: Thursday, June 06, 2002 1:14 PM
> > Subject: Re: IML: 82 Imp EFI won't start/run
> >
> >
> > > These make great daily drivers, as they are
> superbly comfortable and
> quiet
> > > on the road, and get very good mileage. What
> they are not, though, is
> > > performers. The are very slow off the line,
> with the 2:20 rear end, and
> > > 4500 pounds being pulled by a 135 HP engine.
> Once you get them rolling,
> > > however, they will cruise all day at 75 and give
> you 22 MPG or better
> > doing
> > > it.
> > >
> > > You can make a good air cleaner gasket with
> closed cell foam, as used in
> > > weather-strip (it must be closed cell foam,
> however, anything else will
> > let
> > > the air sneak in there without passing the air
> flow sensor. This drives
> > the
> > > computer mad!
> > >
> > > The EFI is throttle body injection, with 4
> nozzles feeding 2 cylinders
> > each
> > > at low flow rates, and 4 more chiming in for
> more fuel demand. The
> > nozzles
> > > are controlled by fuel pressure, with the low
> flow nozzles opening below
> > 20
> > > PSI and the higher flow coming on stream above
> that. This function is
> > > entirely controlled by pressure operated
> mechanical plungers in the
> > > plumbing - no electronics involved at all here.
> The system monitors
> RPM,
> > > throttle position, fuel and air flow,
> temperature of fuel, air and
> > coolant,
> > > time since startup, the O2 content of the
> exhaust, fuel pressure, brake
> > > pedal position, ignition key position and
> perhaps the phase of the moon,
> > and
> > > compares this data with pre-programmed and
> memory data to set the flow
> of
> > > fuel. The computer is basically an analog in -
> analog out device, so it
> > is
> > > not much like our modern digital controlled
> devices at all.
> > >
> > > There is no provision for on board diagnostics.
> The dealers were
> supplied
> > > with a test set, which is little more than an
> box full of switches and
> > > meters. Some on the IML have this device, but
> I have not bothered with
> > > one, as I can learn quite a bit about what is
> going on with normal test
> > > equipment.
> > >
> > > Chrysler dealers sometimes have parts, more
> often you have to run your
> > needs
> > > on PartsVoice.com to see who can come up with
> what you need. You will
> > need
> > > part numbers, of course.
> > >
> > > The fuel filters are under the car near the
> passenger's door hinge post.
> > > They are very normal in-line filters, with good
> availability. Take the
> > old
> > > ones into NAPA and match them up.
> > >
> > > I think your problem is more likely to be too
> much fuel than not enough.
> > If
> > > you have flames coming out the breather, though,
> you may a have a
> cracked
> > > piston or worse. I think it's time to do a
> compression check! It also
> > > would be a good idea to smell the dip stick - if
> you smell gas, you have
> a
> > > bomb waiting to go off there! Drain the
> crankcase and refill it before
> > > doing anything else to the car.
> > >
> > > Dick Benjamin
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: Paul A. Feeney <paFeeney@xxxxxxxx>
> > > To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> > > Sent: Thursday, June 06, 2002 9:38 AM
> > > Subject: Re: IML: 82 Imp EFI won't start/run
> > >
> > >
> > > > Hi Dick,
> > > >
> > > > Thanks for the great advise. I'm planning on
> looking at the car this
> > > weekend
> > > > (after tuning-up my 68). If the lid gaskets
> are bad, is this something
> a
> > > > dealer would still have, or should I improvise
> with a generic seal? I
> > > > bought this car for next to nothing ($250, it
> sat for about 5 years)
> and
> > I
> > > > don't mind putting a few bucks into it as I
> plan to use it as a daily
> > > driver
> > > > (kind of). Heck if this engine doesn't work
> out, I was thinking a
> newer
> > > > Magnum 360, or even a V-10 from a truck.
> > > >
> > > > At the parts store I ran into a little
> confusion on fuel filters. It
> > > listed
> > > > two types, one seemed to be "normal" with a
> simply
=== message truncated ===
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup
http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
Back to the Home of the Forward Look Network