In California, you must comply with state issued regulations as to smog
equipment and certification if the car is newer than 1973. In other
states, you may have more options, but we have to toe the line out here.
Engine swaps are pretty darn hard to get approved, unless you transplant the
whole engine management system along with the engine, and that includes
EVERYTHING!
Originally, the EFI cars were intended to have the 360, but Chrysler could
not get it to pass the EPA smog rules, thus the 381 was substituted. If
you were really sneaky, you could install a 360 and make it look like the
original engine, with all the original smog gear and EFI system, and you
might get away with it if it would pass the current requirements for
emissions, but I'd hate to spend all that money and be turned down!
Dick Benjamin
----- Original Message -----
From: A. Foster <monkeypuzzle1@xxxxxxx>
To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Thursday, June 06, 2002 4:58 PM
Subject: IML: Imp. EFI system on a 360?
> Hello All;
> Speaking of dropping a 360 engine into an 81-83' Imperial, has anyone
ever
> tried to rig up a 360 with the EFI equipment out of one of these cars? If
> one wanted to do this what would be the obstacles?
> As someone mentioned before 135 horsepower is somewhat lackluster
> considering the weight of these cars.
> Could one improve the 318's performance, and still use the EFI system, by
> using the heads off of a 340? Could one do something similar by using
> higher compression 318 heads, either older ones or after market
performance?
> I don't own one of these cars but this thread has brought some ides to
mind.
> Best Regards
> Arran Foster
> 1954 Imperial Newport
> Needing A Left Side Tailight Bezel and other trim parts.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Chad Brown" <clutchfan2001@xxxxxxxxx>
> To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Thursday, June 06, 2002 4:17 PM
> Subject: Re: IML: 82 Imp EFI won't start/run
>
>
> > Paul,
> > Why not check into a Mopar Performance crate engine?
> > They have 360's rated at 300 hp and 380 hp, and they
> > come with warranties. I think the 300 hp version is
> > around $3000, but you'd pay that or near that to get a
> > quality remanufactured 318 or have yours rebuilt to
> > stock specs, and you're still stuck with an anemic
> > engine. The 360 will bolt right in, too. As far as
> > emissions, I don't know, but I'd think a brand new
> > engine from Chrysler should meet smog requirements.
> > Put a decent dual exhaust on it with dual cats, that
> > should do it.
> >
> > --- Dick Benjamin <DickB@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> > > You'll get a lot of advice about engine swaps for
> > > these cars. I am unaware
> > > of anything with double the HP that would fit and
> > > would pass our friendly
> > > smog specs. I too suffer with our Southern
> > > California smog rules.
> > >
> > > Dick Benjamin
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: Paul A. Feeney <paFeeney@xxxxxxxx>
> > > To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> > > Sent: Thursday, June 06, 2002 2:19 PM
> > > Subject: Re: IML: 82 Imp EFI won't start/run
> > >
> > >
> > > > Hi Dick,
> > > >
> > > > I think I'll take your advise on the compression
> > > check before I invest any
> > > > more time/money into the car. If the motor is bad,
> > > I'll probably just yank
> > > > it out and replace with something a little more
> > > "fun". 135HP doesn't sound
> > > > too good to me. This would be such a nice highway
> > > cruiser with about 250HP
> > > > or more. Nobody likes to get tailgated by kids in
> > > Hondas covered with
> > > > stickers after all. Have you heard of anyone doing
> > > an engine swap into one
> > > > of these cars? Keep in mind that I'm in So.
> > > California, so it will HAVE TO
> > > > pass smog. (we're cool on engine swaps as long as
> > > the engine is newer than
> > > > the car, and 100% of the smog for the engine
> > > follows into the car,
> > > including
> > > > diagnostics).
> > > >
> > > > I'll check, and probably change the oil tonight.
> > > At the very least I would
> > > > guess that the cylinders are getting "washed" with
> > > gas at this point.
> > > You're
> > > > right on when you said I'm getting too much fuel.
> > > That's why checking the
> > > > pumps/filters hasn't been a priority for me.
> > > >
> > > > I'll check all the connections, take them apart,
> > > clean them with
> > > electronic
> > > > parts cleaner, apply a little dielectric grease
> > > and re-connect checking
> > > > continuity on the pins. I don't mind doing this
> > > type of work, as long as I
> > > > only have to do it once (do it right the first
> > > time).
> > > >
> > > > Thanks again for the info, I may check a lot of
> > > this tonight and report my
> > > > findings in the morning.
> > > >
> > > > Paul
> > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > From: "Dick Benjamin" <DickB@xxxxxxxxx>
> > > > To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> > > > Sent: Thursday, June 06, 2002 1:14 PM
> > > > Subject: Re: IML: 82 Imp EFI won't start/run
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > > These make great daily drivers, as they are
> > > superbly comfortable and
> > > quiet
> > > > > on the road, and get very good mileage. What
> > > they are not, though, is
> > > > > performers. The are very slow off the line,
> > > with the 2:20 rear end, and
> > > > > 4500 pounds being pulled by a 135 HP engine.
> > > Once you get them rolling,
> > > > > however, they will cruise all day at 75 and give
> > > you 22 MPG or better
> > > > doing
> > > > > it.
> > > > >
> > > > > You can make a good air cleaner gasket with
> > > closed cell foam, as used in
> > > > > weather-strip (it must be closed cell foam,
> > > however, anything else will
> > > > let
> > > > > the air sneak in there without passing the air
> > > flow sensor. This drives
> > > > the
> > > > > computer mad!
> > > > >
> > > > > The EFI is throttle body injection, with 4
> > > nozzles feeding 2 cylinders
> > > > each
> > > > > at low flow rates, and 4 more chiming in for
> > > more fuel demand. The
> > > > nozzles
> > > > > are controlled by fuel pressure, with the low
> > > flow nozzles opening below
> > > > 20
> > > > > PSI and the higher flow coming on stream above
> > > that. This function is
> > > > > entirely controlled by pressure operated
> > > mechanical plungers in the
> > > > > plumbing - no electronics involved at all here.
> > > The system monitors
> > > RPM,
> > > > > throttle position, fuel and air flow,
> > > temperature of fuel, air and
> > > > coolant,
> > > > > time since startup, the O2 content of the
> > > exhaust, fuel pressure, brake
> > > > > pedal position, ignition key position and
> > > perhaps the phase of the moon,
> > > > and
> > > > > compares this data with pre-programmed and
> > > memory data to set the flow
> > > of
> > > > > fuel. The computer is basically an analog in -
> > > analog out device, so it
> > > > is
> > > > > not much like our modern digital controlled
> > > devices at all.
> > > > >
> > > > > There is no provision for on board diagnostics.
> > > The dealers were
> > > supplied
> > > > > with a test set, which is little more than an
> > > box full of switches and
> > > > > meters. Some on the IML have this device, but
> > > I have not bothered with
> > > > > one, as I can learn quite a bit about what is
> > > going on with normal test
> > > > > equipment.
> > > > >
> > > > > Chrysler dealers sometimes have parts, more
> > > often you have to run your
> > > > needs
> > > > > on PartsVoice.com to see who can come up with
> > > what you need. You will
> > > > need
> > > > > part numbers, of course.
> > > > >
> > > > > The fuel filters are under the car near the
> > > passenger's door hinge post.
> > > > > They are very normal in-line filters, with good
> > > availability. Take the
> > > > old
> > > > > ones into NAPA and match them up.
> > > > >
> > > > > I think your problem is more likely to be too
> > > much fuel than not enough.
> > > > If
> > > > > you have flames coming out the breather, though,
> > > you may a have a
> > > cracked
> > > > > piston or worse. I think it's time to do a
> > > compression check! It also
> > > > > would be a good idea to smell the dip stick - if
> > > you smell gas, you have
> > > a
> > > > > bomb waiting to go off there! Drain the
> > > crankcase and refill it before
> > > > > doing anything else to the car.
> > > > >
> > > > > Dick Benjamin
> > > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > > From: Paul A. Feeney <paFeeney@xxxxxxxx>
> > > > > To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> > > > > Sent: Thursday, June 06, 2002 9:38 AM
> > > > > Subject: Re: IML: 82 Imp EFI won't start/run
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > > Hi Dick,
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Thanks for the great advise. I'm planning on
> > > looking at the car this
> > > > > weekend
> > > > > > (after tuning-up my 68). If the lid gaskets
> > > are bad, is this something
> > > a
> > > > > > dealer would still have, or should I improvise
> > > with a generic seal? I
> > > > > > bought this car for next to nothing ($250, it
> > > sat for about 5 years)
> > > and
> > > > I
> > > > > > don't mind putting a few bucks into it as I
> > > plan to use it as a daily
> > > > > driver
> > > > > > (kind of). Heck if this engine doesn't work
> > > out, I was thinking a
> > > newer
> > > > > > Magnum 360, or even a V-10 from a truck.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > At the parts store I ran into a little
> > > confusion on fuel filters. It
> > > > > listed
> > > > > > two types, one seemed to be "normal" with a
> > > simply
> > === message truncated ===
> >
> >
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