Well, just my .002 worth on these drums. We used to loosen the nut a few
turns, then drive the car (pretend you're running an "autocross"). This
would often loosen them up. Another point is to spend as much time
hammering on the *end* of the puller as you do on the spinner. Carefully
applied heat helps too. Be sure to use anti-seize compound on the taper
before you re-install, and next time it won't be such a problem.
Best Regards,
DaveG.
PS - I forgot about this very important step, but be *sure* to heed the
advice about leaving the nut on at the end of the axle shaft - stubborn as
most
of these are, axle damage (destruction?) is almost assured if you do not.
----- Original Message -----
From: pphillips <pphillips@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, March 20, 2001 3:57 PM
Subject: [FWDLK] pulling rear brake hubs
> I can really identify with the impossible-to-pull rear brake drums on
> our cars. I totally destroyed one on my '63 New Yorker by beating it
> while the puller was attached and under extreme tension. It also
> destroyed the threads on the center hub. Had the same problem on my '64
> Chrysler 300, too. So, be careful, and get the right tool--expensive,
> but worth it.
>
> Pete Phillips
> Ector, Texas
> '55 C300
> '63 New Yorker
> '65 Polara
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