There are arguments each way on WHETHER to convert to a dual system, or at
least the argument that since single systems in good condition served very
well, it isn't necessary to change them. You'll need to make that decision,
personally I convert all mine, except the max wedge car since the original
style brake lines are a unique part of the original max wedge package. IF
you decide to convert, you do not need any special combination valve,
special T, or proportioning valve if you are keeping all drums all around,
the whole thing can be done with a '67 C body master cylinder, a few
adaptors, fittings, and some line. I used to post a couple of paragraphs on
the '62-'65 mailing list and the Early Barracuda mailing list on the easy
way to do this conversion, but the latest issue of Mopar Action magazine has
the whole story on this swap from (as Richard Erhenberg put it) at least '57
up to '66, complete with sizes and part numbers for the various fittings and
such, how to install your old-style hydraulic brake light switch into the
original junction block if you don't feel like mounting a '62-up style
mechanical switch and bracket under the dash, etc etc, and copious pictures.
Again, this is not a disc brake swap, just changing from a single to a
dual system for safety's sake. I agree with using stainless lines also, and
of course new hoses, whether you are changing or not to the dual system.
The conversion will not result in any compatibility or performance problems.
The big problem when converting with bellows or oval canister power brake
boosters is simply that the master cylinder lids with the large raised bumps
up top interfere, so you need the master cylinder with the flat lid. The
'67 C body cylinder I bought to convert my '65 Imperial did have the flat
lid. I'll be checking the swap out again when my newly acquired '56 Windsor
project arrives, to see if it will fit. One caveat I would have is that the
cheapo double-flare kits are pretty inconsistent and troublesome if you
decide to make your own lines whether stainless or regular steel. After
wasting time and line and getting pretty frustrated with a Craftsman kit, I
eventually went for a complete double flare kit from the SnapOn truck, it
really works. The big difference seems to be that the SnapOn split block is
made of steel, while the other was aluminum.
Bill & Kathi Parker, South Central Indiana
'60 Chrysler Saratoga; '62 Plymouth Max Wedge; '64 Dart convertible (Kathi's
car); '65 Barracuda \6 (Kathi's other car); '65 Imperial; '68 Barracuda FB
340-S; '69 Barracuda FB now 360 (David's car); '72 Cuda '340
From: Bryan Scott <scott1990@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Reply-To: Bryan Scott <scott1990@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [FWDLK] dual m/c on 58 DeSoto
Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 10:50:54 -0500
Hi all! I'm re-doing the brakes on my 58, from the MC down to the wheel
cylinders. It's currently a single MC with power brakes and all drums.
From all I've read and heard, I was convinced that it would be best to
install a dual MC. Now I read the following comment from the FAQ page on
inlinetube.com:
My car has a single master should I switch to a dual master?
If you are keeping the four wheel drum there is no reason to convert to a
dual master. The fear is that if you loose one line all the brakes will go.
The solution is stainless steel lines. They will never rust and it will be
impossible to ever loose a line. When converting to a dual master you will
need a new master cylinder ,some sort of block that will accept the second
master cylinder line and new clips to hold the additional lines in place.
When you are all done you may have affected the performance of the brakes
with mismatched components resulting in a stronger or weaker brake pedal.
Solve the safety problem with new Inline tubes.
Now I'm back to being unsure what direction to go. I already planned on
using the SS lines. The purpose of this posting is to ask for comments and
experiences of others to finally decide what direction is best!
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