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One of our local legendary restorers that taught at
McPherson College's Auto Restoration Program told of the early Mustang that he
had owned from new. BEFORE it had a chance to rust out, (but it was no
longer a "new" car, either), he completely gutted the car, and then THOROUGHLY
washed out the body to clean it of all dirt/dust/gunk that would have
worked into the nooks/crannies. He then allowed it to sit in the very
efficient Kansas sun and wind to dry for several days. Once it was dry, he
poured rustoleum into the inner quarters/wheelhouses, etc, and place drip pans
under the car to catch back the material that came through. That car
survived very nicely until it became collectible and was an easy restoration
when the next generation of the family was ready for it.
Tim Bowers
McPherson, KS
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Monday, February 12, 2007 10:34
PM
Subject: [FWDLK] rust prevention - what
to do?
Ok, everyone agrees that rust prevention was not a priority back in
the late 50's and early 60's; and that there is a lot of untreated sheetmetal
in our cars. Now let's talk about solutions.
How exactly does one treat the inaccessible areas of a
vehicle's body, when doing a ground-up, frame-off restoration? How can
one get to all those untreated nooks and crannies when the body is bare,
short of dipping the entire body in one huge vat of POR-15, a
totally impractical solution?
My 300F convertible is now fully gutted and the body is
undergoing rust repair and prep for paint. I'd like to ensure that
rust doesn't return and, of course, now would be the time to do whatever can
be done. I am just not sure how to get to all
those inaccessible areas. I'd
appreciate any feedback and practical solutions from this
group.
Thanks ,
John Hertog
Sag Harbor NY
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