Hi Ron,
Yeah, I'll make a note. The link on the Mancini site shows it for 'all
V6/V8's. I know that they are similar. The B/RB block is a different
piece. I took the 318 you referred to as meaning a Poly block 318- which is
'basically' a B-Block, not the LA-based 318. I was under the impression the
318/361/383 were all basically based on the same block from the timeframe.
So, I stand corrected.
That's a keeper for me too!
Charles.
On 7/17/10 2:19 PM, "Ron Waters" <ronbo97@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>
> Hey Chuck -
>
> Lotsa good info here. This email is a 'keeper'.
>
> Yes, I plan to have my machine shop install the bushing when I have the
> block rebuilt.
>
> The only correction to what you have here is that my bushing is part
> no.1324281. The part no. you listed, 1737725, is for B blocks. My engine is
> a 326, which is based on the 318.
>
> Ron
>
>
>> Hi Ron,
>> That is the driveshaft bushing that the others have spoke of. It is also
>> called an Intermediate Shaft Bushing, or Oil Pump Driveshaft Bushing.
>> You will need to replace the bushing.
>> There is a discussion about replacing it here:
>> http://www.moparchat.com/forums/showthread.php?t=59897
>> Or here:
>>
> http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/howto/mopp_0101_how_to_resto_spec_build_a
>> _340_engine/index.html
>>
>> It is available from multiple sources, as it is used in all V6-V8's, the
> 2.2
>> and 2.5 mopar 4 cyl, and all the way up to the Magnum engines. So, you
> can
>> get it from the dealer, Mancini Racing, or any number of parts houses
>> (AutoZone, Advanced Auto, etc should be able to order it.).
>> Mancini has it here:
>>
>> http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/inshbuv1.html
>> Or
>> Part number would be P1737725 for a dealer or any other parts source you
> may
>> want to use (Summit, Jegs, Etc). Might have to drop the P, but that is
> what
>> I have found.
>>
>> The REAL issue is that it needs to be installed with a special tool that
>> will seat it properly. It has to be burnished into place. It cannot be
>> just dropped in, or pounded in with a drift. You can google for the tool,
>> as it is common.
>> Summit Racing carries it-
>> http://www.summitracing.com/parts/OTC-6293/
>>
>> The problem is, it is expensive, so if you are going to do LOTS of
> rebuilds,
>> it is worth it. If not, well, it's not. The solution is simple. If you
>> have not yet done so, when you send the block out to have it cleaned,
>> degreased, honed, etc, just supply the machine shop with the bushing and
>> have them install it. I've never seen a machine shop yet who could not do
>> this- as this bushing set-up is common to MOST american engines. And, the
>> bushing is CHEAP- so no reason NOT to change it.
>>
>> Have Fun,
>> Charles
>>
>>
>> On 7/16/10 8:49 PM, "Ron Waters" <ronbo97@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>>
>>> OK, the shaft is out.
>>>
>>> The block was mounted on an engine stand. I rotated the block 180
> degrees so
>>> that it was upside down, then I drove the shaft out with a screwdriver.
> It
>>> came out with a T-shaped copper bushing attached. The bushing is 1" wide
> by
>>> 1.25 " tall. This is what the shaft was stuck on.
>>>
>>> Initially, the bushing was stuck on the shaft. But I managed to remove
> it
>>> without damage. Is this bushing easily available ? Should I reuse it, or
> get
>>> a new one ?
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>>
>>> Ron
>>>
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>>
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