I cannot recommend American Auto Equipment. Their welding quality control is very poor. Their shipping logistics are atrocious. It took over three months to get my lift - countless phone calls - innumerable excuses. Finally got it last week. Packing, if you want to call it that, was a joke - thin bubble wrap around heavy steel parts, which jostled around in transit, significantly scraping paint on ALL parts. I photographed all and have made claim with AAE. From other stories on web, I expect little from them in terms of resolution. Wish I'd investigated more before choosing AAE. You get what you pay for. BendPack looks like a better bet.
Dan Davids
One of my buddies talked me into the
asymmetrical 2-post from bendpak, works great! (Went with a ~14’ ceiling
and 12’ roll up doors to get the wife’s RV in as well!)
-Bob
http://www.bendpak.com/best-car-lift-guide/lift-style-comparison/
From: Forward Look
Mopar Discussion List [mailto:L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Bill Parker
Sent: Sunday, May 06, 2012 11:54
AM
To: L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [FWDLK] Home
four-post lifts?
My experience mirrors that of Ray
just about exactly. I did have a buddy help me install my two post lift
which came from "Team Lift" in Texas.
(in return, the first job done on the lift was a transmission change for
him) They didn't have a website then but were listing on eBay and I bought that
way. No idea if they are still in business, I bought about 8 years ago.
I had it shipped to a buddy's body shop to save charges (much cheaper to
a business with a fork lift), then offloaded from my trailer with a cherry
picker, after cutting the bands and separating the big pieces to handle
individually. They sent the "low ceiling" version by mistake
and a call got me the right parts (top connector rail etc) in less than a week,
they told me to keep the other stuff too rather than them paying to ship it
back. All of the companies offer both 2 post and 4 post. My pole
barn was a 12 footer in height which really translated into about 11' 6"
clearance, but like Ray, I removed the bottom chord on a truss and braced
everything up (I had a construction company at that time and was able to enlist
the advice of a truss manufacturer's rep to make sure I did it safely.)
This provided the space to install the "open floor" type of
lift, I didn't want the "low ceiling" type if I could help it because
that involves a ramped metal hump across the floor for the hose and cable to
run in, which inhibits movement of under-lift stuff like oil drain etc.
The roof of the vehicle raises up into the open space where the chord was
raised. But you probably don't care about any of this since you are
wanting a 4 poster. What I've heard about four post lifts is that if you
are going to do any tire or brake work you gotta buy at least one of the
sliding jacks that raise the car off the ramps. Also, a friend of mine is
a transmission tech and told me that one of his shop's lifts is a four poster,
and it eats up his elbows and funny bones if he tries to do a tranny change on
that one. On the positive side, which a four poster, there's no installation
involved except a power cord (unless you want to install it permanently).
Either will let you raise one car on it and park another underneath if that's
your intent. The 2 post jobs are cheaper. Most all the companies
offer attachments which allow you to roll the whole thing around on a level
smooth floor when it is in the down position, I think that would be real handy.
On my two poster, I've had the '65 Imperial on it many times, solid as a
rock with that 5173 pounds advertised curb weight, and also had my old W200 and
now my Ram 2500 on it several times too with no issues at all. I
installed on my 5" 4500 pound floor (When I built the barn I knew some day
I'd be putting a lift in) but the specs from the company were 2.5" of 2500
pound test, which is going to cover pretty much any garage floor or outdoor pad
any responsible concrete finisher would consider installing. But on my
floor I feel completely safe banging around on the big boats, prying a trans
out, etc. My only regret: not spending the $200 more to get the
"asymmetrical" arms, which gives more versatility in positioning the
car and letting you open the door to climb in and out without hitting the post
with it.
Bill & Kathi Parker, South Central Indiana...'49 Plymouth 2 door; '62 Plymouth
Max Wedge; '64 Dart convertible; '65 Barracuda \6; '65 Imperial; '68 Barracuda
FB 340-S; '69 Barracuda FB now 360; '70 Challenger now 440; '72 Cuda '340
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