Here’s my strategy about that:
1. I’m going to stick the bolts in the valley gasket first (with sealer on it.
2. I’ll install the clips on the front and back to hold down the insulation pad.
3. I’ll tighten those smaller 6 bolt with the manifold bolts in.
4. I’ll remove the manifold bolt, put sealer on the top of the valley gasket, and install the manifold.
5. Tighten bolts in sensible sequence.
I re-installed the intake manifold on my H 2or3 years ago and just followed the instructions that came with the new metal valley pan gasket.
Worked fine - no vacuum leaks. Did have trouble placing the manifold exactly over the bolt holes without displacing the metal gasket. so used some short pieces of smaller diameter metal rod to help with the alignment.
"Michael Moore mmoore8425@xxxxxxx
"Mike Moore" <mmoore8425@xxxxxxx
>Sent: Wednesday, December 23, 2015 3:38:40 PMSubject:
[Chrysler300] Question about intake manifold gasket 300H
Several weeks ago I discovered I had a massive leak between my intake manifold and each heads, pretty much halfway back on each side.
I discussed this with Jeff Carter several weeks ago, and he thought if the sealing ribs embossed in the valley gasket weren’t flattened I might need to use a paper gasket.
He is currently unavailable. I have removed the old valley metal gasket and all surfaces are flattened as I might expect. I noticed the two center bolts on each side were not as tight as the rest. Not “loose”, just not as tight.
My current plan is to clean heads and valley in car to be spotless and use a tiny bead of red hi temp rtv on the engine, all around with a tiny circle around each intake. I’ll install that, install the sheet metal clips front and rear along with the insulation bags and tighten those down. I will then put circles (like o rings) of rtv around each intake port opening, install and torque down to 40 ft-lbs the intake manifold.
Am I missing anything? (I really only want to do this once!)
Thanks, Mike Moore