
Re: [Chrysler300] 1962/63/64 Power Rear Antenna Talk
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Re: [Chrysler300] 1962/63/64 Power Rear Antenna Talk
- From: "paul paulholm@xxxxxxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300]" <Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Sat, 23 Jan 2016 13:47:07 -0500
On 01/23/16 01:54, 'Rich Barber' c300@xxxxxxx [Chrysler300] wrote:
> I spent about ten minutes at John Holst’s most excellent website
> http://www.jholst.net/62-parts-manual/accessories.pdf as I was curious
> to see if the parts manuals were clear on these parts. Section 1-88-6
> shows the power antenna mounting system includes two adapters-upper and
> lower, above and below the sheet metal. The adapters are different for
> the ’62, ’63 and ’64. Everything else looks the same so a set of ’62
> adapters/bezels is all you need. If anyone scrapped out a ’62 power
> antenna but kept the carcass, the adapters would make an easy sale to
> Matt. But it takes both—and the gasket.
> While on the subject, I have a spare but non-functioning power antenna
> system for a ’64 Chrysler. I’m trying to get to the bearings of the
> reversible motor which seem to be frozen. I’ve got the antenna base
> loose from the motor but am stuck on digging into the sealed motor.
> Anyone been deeper into one of these on a DIY basis? I’m hoping that a
> little persuasion on and lubrication of the shaft bearings will return
> the system to functionality. The lower adapter/bezel is pot metal and
> designed to only go together the correct way.
> Also, the switch for this system was a challenge to get to and was also
> frozen. Persuasion and lubrication returned it to functionality.
> Good luck with your quest.
> Rich Barber
Old message
Forwarded from a message I got today:
----------------------------------------------------------------
Some of you might appreciate this. Machinist's Workshop magazine
tested penetrants for break out torque on rusted nuts.
They are below, as forwarded by an ex-student and professional
machinist, Bud Baker.
They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrants
with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from
a "scientifically rusted" environment.
*Penetrating oil ..... Average load*
None ...................... 516 pounds
WD-40 ..................... 238 pounds
PB Blaster ................ 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ............. 127 pounds
Kano Kroil ................ 106 pounds
ATF-Acetone mix..............53 pounds
The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic
transmission fluid and acetone. Note the "home brew" was better
than any commercial product in this one particular test.
Our local machinist group mixed up a batch and we all now use
it with equally good results.
Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is about as good as "Kroil" for
about 20% of the price.
stolen from here
http://forums.thecarlounge.net/zerothread?id=4547049
--
Paul Holmgren
Hers: http://in09.endcancer.org/goto/Cindy.Holmgren
Maybe preheating the stuck part a little then applying the
ATF-Acetone mix several times???
--
--
Paul Holmgren
My Train of thought Derailed, there were No Survivors
------------------------------------
Posted by: paul <paulholm@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
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