Coincidentally spent about ten hours this past week on about 10 pw motors. What Don says is right , but found a way to fix that . No time now very long story of 2 big time failures first, maybe pdf or something later ,on that specific thing , you cannot get ball in --if it pops out , you are done for --and centering action of end bearing retaining spring is lost by popout event too -- even if you DO get it in , as spring steel gets bent outward if it pops out . If spring action lost then armature scrapes inside due to off center pull of magnets pulls bearing ball to side slightly = max bummer after a LOT of tedious work . But --sometimes cannot get apart without popping it out , brush end, due to corrosion. Thats life. Drill bigger hole in end 1/8" drive out with nail . Now you have a parts kit .. Caused by a water ingress.
I made a thing like a two prong fork to support front ball while still in its end cover , fits in front of armature behind end cover , rests in vise so you can tap shaft out over an open vise -- without popping ball out -- but takeaway for today is that the seizing and all the rest is caused by water .
Front pw motors and probably antenna face straight up water goes into motor . There is a felt like material around that ball meant to hold oil ( but seemingly never oiled at factory) it holds the water. Common motor design in 30's to 50's . Oil wick for patented "oilite" bushing . ( like 300 speedo input bearing oil wick thing!) . Not needed in motor. Everything in bottom of power window motor , brush , bearing , armature shaft and circuit breaker are destroyed by months if not years long sitting in dampness from the wet felt . Also noted rust behind the field windings pushes them out , more unsolveable problems , as armature might not fit by them if pushed out . If you push on them to put back insulation gets hurt .
Rain or wash car , in it goes . Motor look perfect on outside . Cars left outside.. =Ruined front pw motors. Cars inside , perfect shape . This Pattern noted in all these motors. later ( replacement ?) motors seem vinyl dipped . That will not fix entering at nose. They had a problem and knew it . Dipping might make it worse . Water vapor cannot get out
Trying to figure out plastic sheet u shaped rain cover in door ,on top of gearbox and motor like they do for door radio speakers ---like horizontal axis mounted 3 sides U , say cut from milk quart center ??
For now two quick things in restoration : 1) drill.060 hole in exact center of bulge at back ( drain) you may hit end of shaft will not hurt it ; pre 57 has this hole !!!! If apart drill two more near back cover bolts . 2 ) the plastic umbrella to throw off water at nose NEVER seals to the shaft , surface tension of water makes it go in and then through front bearing . Which can seize too. Umbrella Cannot seal to shaft due to mickey mouse really dumb design poor fit to flat on shaft . By putting contact cement or weathsrtrip cement there after pushing umbrella toward motor all the way , (push even beyond flat ) you can get a waterproof seal to an oil free shaft . Touch of cement tube nose to shaft and collar on side toward gearbox then turn motor shaft . It drags a line of cement just right . Put aside to harden , if you try to put on other side , it gets into nose bearing.
Save even junk motors , "junk" due to what Don describes --for brushes and those bearing balls ! For later !
Good test on pw motors , a good one draws 5-6 A no load at 5 v . Not good to put 12 v on it with no load --series motor spins very fast then . I noiced some armatures have some loose wire turns at one end of each winding ( last turn)-- ( poor workmanship ) it might get spun outward at high speed . I put epoxy on those with tooth pick .. Ought to be ok but not sure. Do not want loose windings.. Ever .
Maybe this helps ..
Saved 8 out of ten !!
Sent from my iPhone
On Jan 23, 2016, at 10:25 AM, dverity@xxxxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300] <Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
Posted by: John Grady <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
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