Re: Exhaust "bypass" valve? Also..timing

[Jacob Fox <imfast101@xxxxxxxxx>]

Guess the first thing I should've asked was will the pinging hurt the motor any? From the way it sounds it sure does seem like it lol 

Sent from my iPhone

On Sep 8, 2011, at 4:12 PM, Eric Sturgis <ericsturgis@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:

> LOTS of things play into properly running motor, Fuel, Carburetor,
> Distributor, Timing, Exhaust, Temp, Altitude, Spark Plugs, Wires,
> Rings, Valves...etc.  There is no "Quick fix" to stop engine pinging.
> However there are many common things that cause it and make it really
> bad.  First the timing...your car should be as you set it, 10btdc.
> However if the fuel you are running is a low octane, or if the motor
> is running on the hot side, or if you are up in the mountains it may
> be too much.  Try turning it back a few degrees, try 8 or 5 degrees to
> see if it likes it better.  Buy the best fuel you can and the highest
> octane rating you can find, remember when you car was new regular gas
> octane was 93 and Premium was around 101, your car would have run on
> 93 octane, that today is Premium gas...not regular.  Octane helps to
> stop the pinging and regular gas now is MUCH lower octane .  Make sure
> the plugs are in good condition as the plug wires.  Make sure the air
> filter is clean, and if all that fails, the carburetor maybe out of
> adjustment.  But I would do the fuel and adjust the timing to suit the
> car.  Remember it's a 50 year old car, it's going to be quirky a bit.
> It's not like the new cars on the road today where computers adjust
> everything 1000's of times a minute to make them run wonderful.
> 
> On Thu, Sep 8, 2011 at 1:33 PM, Jacob Fox <imfast101@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>> How do I remove/disable the exhaust bypass valve on the exhaust manifold? It rattles and is super noisy going down the road...hopefully it can be done without removal of the manifold. Never removed them and really don't wanna twist any bolts off.
>> 
>> Okay timing. Had a lot of "valve noise" on accelerating and A LOT when I punch it. I removed vacuum line from distributor and adjusted to 10 btdc. Being that 10 is the only number on my timing stub I guess that's what that is. Now after putting it back together and taking it in the road...no difference.  Plus it had a rough idle. Now I noticed when I adjusted it to 10btdc with vacuum advance still on, it idled smoother...didn't have any noise, but taking off and in turns it almost dies...what should I do to get it right!? It doesn't have points, electronic ignition.
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
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> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> Eric
> Tacoma, WA
> 1962 Chrysler Newport 2 door HT
> 
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> 
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1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
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