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Progress of New Zealand's prize Plymouth

Here, you will find annual updates in progress of a '57 Plymouth Fury. A right-hand driver, Too! (Not original from factory) We will follow the complete restoration of this beauty. As an added bonus, we will learn a bit about undoing major modifications (or 'butchering' as some put it) on her.



"This may well seem the craziest restoration you have ever seen...as the wedding photo is actually the "before" photo, taken in October 2000. The second photo is the day I started stripping my Fury apart, taken November 18th 2000.

I have owned my Fury for 16 years, and drove it around 3 times a week for all those years. It was always a good looking car, but suffered from having been restored before I bought it. The previous owners had changed the engine, transmission, drive shaft, diff, brakes, upholstery, paint, front clip, and it had been changed to right hand drive. All of these parts had been lost.

It was my goal to put this car back to how it rolled off the assembly line. A tall order in USA in 2000, but almost impossible in New Zealand, at the bottom of the world, a country where 90% of cars on the road are Japanese. In January of 2002, I believe my Fury is about 60% restored, as future pics will show. As an indication where the pics will go, my left rear quarter came off the car for rust repair last week-the right rear has already been removed, repaired, and tacked in place for the time being."


Glenn
New Zealand


Front clip removed, engine about to be taken out. Note incorrect colors of engine and engine bay. Engine and transmission gone. Both kept my Fury on the road for 15 years, but as they were both incorrect, they are now just spare parts. Picture of firewall, right side, after the panelbeater had removed the firewall-to-body mount revealing extensive rust in between the two skins. The new panel he formed to replace this rusted out area also deletes the hole where the old right hand drive steering box penetrated the firewall. This area of firewall should be inspected closely on these cars during restoration, due to it being a classic water trap.

      
      


The firewall required extensive panelwork to repair major rust, holes drilled by previous owners, and reversal of the right hand drive conversion back to left hand drive format. At this point of the resto, I was only going to be doing a tidy up in preparation for the new running gear and left hand drive conversion-then back on the road. After discovering all the rust under that shiny paint, it became obvious that it could not be left, so a full resto was on the books.

      


The original right hand drive conversion was a reasonable job considering it had been done in around 1960, to meet Australian approval. The steel dashboard had been reversed by cutting the original dash into several sections, and then welded back together, less the padded dash recess. The car was once a manual transmission, and the original manual steering column remained although the previous owner had adapted push-buttons from I believe a 62, and used the later 727 transmission. A steel bar ran across the firewall from the brake pedal to the brake pedal box which was still on the left side. It was fitted with a manual steering box. The cloth seat inserts had been removed and replaced with vinyl. When the carpet was removed, typical floor rust was discovered, along with many very poor attempts at rust repair. Patches upon patches. Holes. The floor was going to need many hours spent!

      


The floor pan, as is typical of 50's MoPars, was a nightmare. Rusty old patches braized on top of older patches welded on top of rust. Even the bracing under the floor needed major surgery. All areas of rust were removed to two inches past the nearest sign of rust, new panels formed-all with correct swages/grooves/indentations etc as factory, and these were then cut into the floor pan, butt welded, and then hammered and filed as if they grew there. There was also a number of holes drilled, which required cutting and patches butt welded in and then hammer and filed. There was even a hole on the trans tunnel which looked like the car had at some time had a floor shifter.
      


I started stripping the Fury with paint stripper, which I would not recommend. Under that shiny paint I found another 12 layers of paint, plastic filler, a lot of lead, and underneath that, there were lots of old patches on top of rusty holes, and a LOT of dents. The right rear quarter looked like it had been beaten with a baseball bat in about 10 places, and the rear by the fin looked like a horse had leaned against it at some time. There were lots of holes where someone in the past had used some sort of a body puller to pull out the dents halfway before filling them. I learned that paint stripper is not much good for removing plastic filler. After stripping the whole car except the trunk lid and the roof, it was decided that I would acid dip the entire body and frame. What the heck-do it once, do it right! If I had known what was under that paint, I would have acid dipped it first instead of messing round with the paint stripper by hand.
            



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Can you help me locate any of the following parts that I am missing, so that my restoration will proceed through to completion unhindered? You can count on this being current-if a part is on the list then I need it, and you could get to see the part that you supply appear on this page installed onto this very 57 Fury! Fair prices paid for good parts. Any help appreciated. Contact me here.


PARTS WANTED
For 1957 Plymouth, Fury. Parts colored in green have been found with your help!
Shaft to carb linkage, with stud, w/auto 3sp, Fury, Part# 1827-691. (Supplied by Johnny P, Auckland, NZ)
Shaft to carb linkage, with slot, w/auto 3sp, Fury, Part# 1822-008. (Missing part turned up)
Accelerator pedal lever (what the rubber pedal attaches to) w/auto 3sp, Part# 1734-024. (Supplied by Wendy at glnos@iserv.net)
Clips for retaining narrow side stainless mouldings. (Supplied by Ed Sitek, Tolland, Ct.06084)
Clips for retaining roof rail stainless mouldings-original-used OK. (supplied by Tim Ridl.)
Clips for retaining chrome fin cap mouldings (Supplied by Florida Auto Fastener. 67cayne@gtcom.net. Tony and John.)
Clips for retaining stainless moulding that goes directly under trunk lid (Supplied by Florida Auto Fastener. 67cayne@gtcom.net. Tony and John.)
Clip that holds windshield washer hose to underside of hood-used OK. (Supplied by John Garofalo, Florida)
6 inch wheel rims (5 needed).
Transmission front & lower inspection covers. (2). (Supplied by Tim Ridl, Dickinson, ND 58601)
Highway Hi-fi mounting brackets(1957).
Highway Hi-fi records.
Radiator support to hood bumpers x 2. (Rubber stops with threaded steel). (Supplied by John Garofalo, Florida)
Identification tags for carburettors, brass triangular, to suit carbs 2631S & 2632S. (Supplied by Ebay user "Mztercarb.")
Fuel pump-Stamped M2501S. (Supplied by Greg Pickens, Ebay user purepony)
Ballast resistor, ceramic thing that mounts on coil, want correct one as shown in manual, not later model.
Muffler support package-muffler end-dual exhaust, Part # 1843-009 (2)
Muffler support & clamp-muffler end-dual exhaust, Part # 1843-008 (2)
Exhaust support & clamp-exhaust end-dual exhaust, Part #1843-010 (2)
Tail pipe extensions, Part #
Clips for retaining chrome hood letters. (Kindly supplied by Louis Guzman from Freeport, New York.)
and any NOS parts.



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