Re: IML: 60 fuel sender unit

["Rob van der Es" <r.vdes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Thanks for the compliment Paul :)

Robert


Op Do, 10 mei, 2007 1:01 pm, schreef randalpark@xxxxxxx:
> This is totally correct and up to date on the process. Thanks for
> spelling it all out Robert!
>
> Paul W.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: r.vdes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Sent: Thu, 10 May 2007 1:12 AM
> Subject: Re: IML: 60 fuel sender unit
>
>
> Hello again Tom,
>
>
> Sorry to hear about your bad luck with the instrument cluster!
> Paul is right here (isn't he always :), your voltage limiter (inside the
> Temp gauge) is defective.
> This is a sort of breakerpoints construction, with a bi-metal that is
> heated by the 12 Volts of your car battery. When the piece of metal has
> heated up the breakerpoints are opened, the bi-metal cools down then and
> the points are closed. The whole cycle starts again and again and
> again....
>
> Resulting in a sort of constant voltage for the gauge of appr. 6 Volts.
>
>
> Glad to hear that you disconnected all the senders, so your gauges will
> be save then. It is very easy to fry them. You have to pull out the
> instrument cluster to gain access to the old limiter, you must disconnect
> it permanently from the terminals of the Temp
> gauge.
>
> In case you haven't pulled out the cluster before, it is very easy.
> Remove the chrome ring (one small Philips screw), unscrew the securing
> nut for the time-adjustment knob of your clock, remove the the 3 larger
> Philips screws that are securing the cluster in the dash.
>
>
> Now you can pull out the cluster a little (those wires are not so long
> to get it all the way out) and remove all the wires that are connected to
> the gauges. Make a note how everything was connected if you still haven't
> found your FSM back.
>
> If you have the instrument cluster on the workbench, you can remove
> three other Philips screws that are holding the Temp gauge in place. You
can
> take it out now.
>
> Now comes the tricky bit, remove the dial from the gauge (two small
> screws) but remove the small white wire that is running to a terminal on
> the dial first! You will see the inside of the Temp gauge now.
> It will be easy then to remove the remainings of your old limiter so
> that it is no longer connected to the terminals of the gauge.
>
> You can go now for a NAPA replacement, but if you are handy with a
> solder iron you can also go for a modern solid state voltage limiter. That
> is why the old remainings of your defective limiter must be removed, cause
> what we want to do is connected the the leads of the solid state device to
> the terminals of temp gauge. I have made this conversion a year ago and
> used  the LT1083CP5 for it, it delivers a rocksteady 5 Volts and you can
> draw as much as 8 Amp. from it!
>
> It is a very small device and it can be easily mounted at the back of
> your temp gauge. The metal housing will be the heatsink for the voltage
> regulator/limiter then.
>
> I have make this conversion for almost a year ago now, and all the
> gauges are working trouble free since then.
>
> I know, this whole conversion thing sound rather complicated but it
> isn't!
>
> I don't know how much you are in a hurry (problaby as much as I am to
> get my car back on the road..) but please feel free to send the gauge (or
> complete cluster to me) and I will do the conversion for you.
>
> It will take 5 days to send it to me, and 5 days to send it back so
> within 2 weeks you should be able to fit the instrument cluster again.
>
>
> Good luck,
>
>
> Robert
>
>
>
> Op Do, 10 mei, 2007 12:31 am, schreef Tom Scott:
>
>> I disconnected all the senders so I don't fry my gauges.  Can the
>>
> voltage
>> limiter be replaced without taking the gauges out?  Is it a simple
>> remove and replace job or am I missing something? Tom ----- Original
>> Message -----
>> From: <randalpark@xxxxxxx>
>> To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>> Sent: Wednesday, May 09, 2007 6:22 PM
>> Subject: Re: IML: 60 fuel sender unit
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>> That part doesn't effect the voltage limiter.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Paul W.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: rlkidd@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>>> To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>>> Sent: Wed, 9 May 2007 12:28 PM
>>> Subject: Re: IML: 60 fuel sender unit
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Try unplugging the sender at the tank again. The
>>> rheostat may be bad in the new part.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Wed, 9 May 2007 12:10:52 -0700 (PDT)
>>> tom higgins <thomash85715@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>>>> Why would this happen at the same time as the sender was
>>>> being changed out?  Just a coincidence?  Tom said the other gauges
> read
>>>> normal until the replacement device went in.
>>>>
>>>> randalpark@xxxxxxx wrote:  The internal voltage limiter has failed.
>>>>  You will need to bypass it and
>>>> install an external one on the back of the cluster. By being pegged
> the
>>>> gauges are receiving too much voltage, so they will burn out very
>>>> soon if you don't disconnect them.
>>>>
>>>> There is information about this at ther OIC web site.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Paul W.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>> From: shelbyguy@xxxxxxx
>>>> To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>>>> Sent: Wed, 9 May 2007 10:46 AM
>>>> Subject: Re: IML: 60 fuel sender unit
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Well, I got my rebuilt fuel sender for my 60 Crown back
>>>> last night and I just got finished installing it. Prior to the
> rebuild,
>>>> my fuel gauge remained on E at all times. The oil pressure gauge
>>>> worked as did the temperature and ammeter gauges. Now, after
> installing
>>>> the rebuilt fuel sender, the fuel gauge registers FULL even though
>>>> I
>>>> know there is only 3 gallons in the tank, the temp gauge pegged at
> H as
>
>>>> did the oil pressure gauge. Anybody have any ideas what happened?
> Thanx
>
>>>> Tom
>>>> 60 4dr Crown Southampton.
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