Re: IML: The half-lit dome light
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Re: IML: The half-lit dome light



Rob

Have you used a volt meter to see what sort of voltage levels are on the contacts and at light socket?



David C. Wilker Jr.
USAF (RET)


----- Original Message ----- From: "Rob van der Es" <r.vdes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Wednesday, June 20, 2007 2:21 AM
Subject: Re: IML: The half-lit dome light


Hello again Joe,

I haven't found the problem yet. Bad weather and lots of rain made me stay
away from the car that is parked on my drive way outside :(
Dutch garages just aren't big enough for 1960 Imperials I am afraid.

If weather permits, I will have a look this weekend. I also have to
replace the backup light switch then, you know the one that is mounted on
the pushbutton assembly.

You are right, cutting wires is a little drastic :)
I only cut the wires from the rear door post switches to see what happens
(those wires are easy accessible when you remove the sill plates on both
sides). But the light still stays on.

As you suggested, I will try to remove the tape from the wire bundle at
the front passenger door to see what is wrong there.
I think one of the motor leads of the power window motor, or a wire at the
powerlock switch is at fault.

Ofcourse I will let the group know what was wrong, as soon as I have found
the error!

Robert

Op Wo, 20 juni, 2007 12:05 am, schreef Joe Strickland:
Rob;


Did you ever find the cause/solution for the dome light being at half
brightness?  You mentioned the possibility of cutting wires which sounded
drastic.  Perhaps by removing the electrical tape or other protective
wrapping around the bundle of wires going to/from the passenger door you
could move or flex individual wires until you find the offending wire.
Then the wire could be replaced and the bundle of
wires secured together again with electrical tape or whatever was
originally used.

The way the dome lamp circuit works is that there is 12 volts DC always
present on the pink wiring to the lamp and the yellow wire coming from the lamp receptacle is the side that gets grounded to turn the lamp on. As you
mentioned before, any other item that were to short to the yellow lead
such as a motor winding etc. could make the lamp turn on at reduced
brightness.

If you have to replace a section of wire, be sure to get the same AWG
gauge and try to find wire that has the same number and size of individual
strands that make up the overall AWG gauge size.

I hope you find a solution.


Joe S.



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