RE: IML: 61 Brake Lights, I am stumped

There is a special socket for removing these senders, but a 1 1/16 “twelve point” socket will usually do the job. Go to the store and get the new switch, and ask the man to sell you a socket that will fit it – the old one should be the same. At NAPA, their SL-134 is the number that fits most of our cars, but compare it with your old one to make sure, because the store won’t take an electrical part back.

Dick Benjamin

From: mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Frank Griffin
Sent: Friday, August 31, 2007 9:25 AM
To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: IML: 61 Brake Lights, I am stumped

I am close to fixing the problem. I really had two problems. The brake switch leads had high resistance. The voltage was good enough to light my test light but the amperage was too low to light the bulbs. I cut off the oxidized wire ends and soldered new bullet terminals on the clean wire. When I touched the leads together I had nice bright brake lights which didn't work before when I shorted the leads. I thought I would be all set after I hooked up the brake light switch but still no lights. So now I know for sure I have a bad break light switch. I am having a tough time removing it though. Is there a special tool for these switches or do I just use some pliers ?

GeoNort@xxxxxxx wrote:

I have to agree with Ken I feel your problem is turn switch related.

George

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