Re: [FWDLK] Brake bleeding problems 57-300C power brakes

[Jim Krausmann <kraus300@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

George,

 

I've done the same coversion to my C. I used the double master that Roger recommends. Its the manual brake drum/drum unit from a Dodge truck. There are still some fluid volume issues with this master but any disc/drum master I could find was too tall. They simply do not clear the power booster on this car. A second issue was that a wider master had an even bigger conflict the hemi spark plug cover (more about that later).

 

I know that John Hertog is running his G on a single master with front disc brakes. I think he even has double piston calipers. He says he's had no problems. 

 

The previous advise to check the brake shoe/pad action at the wheels and rebleed the master sounds good. The only two things I can add to make sure the rear shoes are adjusted properly. Second is I did have a bear of time getting all the air out of the system. Part was just the nature of the silicone fluid. I ended up using a clear plastic drain tube attached to the bleeder screw. I could see small air bubbles in the tube even after multiple bleeding attempts.

 

If you just can't make it work and have to go the dual master route let me know. You'll still have to modify the spark plug cover but when done right its not really visible.  I have photos around here somewhere.

 

Jim Krausmann
Detroit  

 

 

 

 

> -------------- Original message -------------- 
>
> > Hello all... 
> > In restoring the car I installed a new master cylinder, new 
> > rear wheel cylinders and shoes and AAJ front disc brakes and 
> > I have a problem... Here's whats happening. First, all the 
> > lines are new from Inline Tube and no leaks. The master 
> > cylinder was bench bled following the NAPA instructions, 
> > prior to installing. After installing the master, all the 
> > brake lines were bled in the proper order. I am using DOT 5 
> > brake fluid and a Wellwood proportioning valve. After dozens 
> > of times bleeding the brakes, there is a small amount of 
> > pedal and it is very hard (firm) but seems like I must hold 
> > it down for a few seconds to get the brakes to activate. 
> > They certainly would not stop the car if driving down the 
> > stret o!
>  r highway. Can anyone tell me what is wrong?? Is the 
> > DOT 5 the problem?? I have talked to Roger at AAJ Brakes 
> > today and he seemed to think there was still air in the 
> > lines but that seems very unlikely to me at this point. I 
> > was told by the brake guy that it is not going to work with 
> > a single master cylinder but that is not what I am being to 
> > by others including Roger at AAJ Brakes. Please help. . . . 
> > . 
> > 
> > Thanks 
> > George 
> > 
> > 
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