Re: [FWDLK] Differential seals and wiring

[Mike Apfelbeck <moparmike72@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

Before you take the nut off, check for any movement (free play) in the
bearing, it should spin easily but have no discernable side play. If
there is a little looseness in the bearing it can be adjusted either by
removing a shim from in front of the pinion bearing or tightening the
crush sleeve, depending on what style of axle you have. The Chicago
Rawhide store will also have a "speedy sleeve" available to
repair the seal surface on your yoke, if needed.
I use a 1/2" air wrench to remove/ replace the pinion nut, a drop of
locktite on the nut is a good idea. The nut needs to be tight enough to
keep things seated together, 90-100 foot/ pounds is enough. If you over
tighten the nut, it's possible change the preload and bind up the
bearing, it takes a lot of pressure, maybe 200 foot pounds or so, not
likely you'll do that at home
Mike.  

At 11:12 PM 3/15/2005, David Homstad wrote:
> Kyle,
>  
> I just had my Dodge?s pinion seal done 2 years ago. I watched the process
> as the mechanic did it. It is important that when you re-torque the
> pinion nut that it stops in the same place as it was when you took it
> apart. That holds the gear adjustments in-place. Otherwise, premature
> gear wear could result. Mark a scribe line on the nut, pinion flange, and
> pinion shaft for re-alignment. Lock the tries from rotating. It is OK to
> tighten the nut slightly past the scribe line to assure proper torque,
> but only a few degrees. A few drops of LokTite on the nut is also a good
> idea. An impact air wrench is very useful. Inspect the pinion flange
> surface where the seal contacts for excessive wear. A little silicone RTV
> sealant applied to the outer diameter of the seal shell is also a good
> idea. 
>  
> New seals are available (about $25) through most auto parts stores from
> Chicago Rawhide:
> http://www2.chicago-rawhide.com/
>  
> Dave Homstad 
> 56 Dodge D500
>  
>  
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Forward Look Mopar Discussion List [mailto:L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx]On Behalf Of Richard Whelan
> Sent: Sunday, March 13, 2005 5:46 AM
> To: L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: Re: [FWDLK] Differential seals and wiring
>  
> You just need to remove the drive shaft,pinion yoke and the seal. Of course drain the differential down below the level of the seal and refill with the proper lube after. You will need a torque wrench with the capacity to torque the pinion nut back to the specification in the service manual. No other disassembly is needed. Dick
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: kkleparek 
> To: L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx 
> Sent: Saturday, March 12, 2005 2:54 PM
> Subject: [FWDLK] Differential seals and wiring
>  
> Hello list,
>  
> I need to replace the front (pinion) seal in my 56 Belvedere's differential.  My question is can I do this without taking the whole thing apart, and if not should I just replace all the seals and gaskets?  I've never had a diff. apart before, so I was just wondering.
>  
> Also, I know some of you have replaced your wiring (built your own harness) and I was wondering if you got special wires that were marked, or if you got a bunch of different colors, or if you just used red and black?  If you found marked or colored wire where did you find it, and if not how did you tell which wires go where when you go through holes or to the back of the car and stuff?  Also how do I tell what gauge wire I need?  Is there a guide that can measure how thick my existing wire is?
>  
> Thanks,
> Kyle
>
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