Sounds logical, but this is still my first attempt so I haven't tried it. You may be right even only because the pits will be little smaller when you start. I'm committed to finding a solution here, I don't expect to give up tinkering on old cars anytime soon and it's not as if this problem will go away. So I'm watching this thread closely for any and all suggestions.
I didn't find any problems with the pot metal being too soft. The copper plating before repair may be an unnecessary step since they will they will have to polish the part both before and after the fill solder. As for the heat, the flux changes color at the correct temp which is 350 and pot metal starts to melt around 700 (which I did) the window between hot enough and too hot is fairly comfortable unless the part is very thin. I tried silver solder and melted the pot metal at about the same temp as the solder. Fortunately it was a donor piece of pot metal that I expected to damage.
Thanks,
Larry Gardinier
-------------- Original message ----------------------
From: Paul Holmgren <paulholm@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Larry Gardinier wrote:
> > I have personal experience with a product called Muggy Weld and a propane
> torch. It's like a solder that melts at a lower heat range so as not to melt pot
> metal. I first used a dremel tool with a diamond tip to clean out the pits. Then
> I used the Muggy Weld to fill the pits- that didn't work very well. The chrome
> shop grinders and polishers knocked most of it back out. Luckily they were
> patient with me and told me of the problem and invited me to bring my stuff down
> to the shop and try again. Since the chrome and nickle had been removed the pits
> were easier to fill and they did final polishing while I waited so I could see
> the results. Now everything is at the platers and should be back later this week
> so we'll see how it all turns out. To grind the Muggy Weld I used a sanding disc
> on my Dremel, actually I used a LOT of sanding discs.
> > I would suggest you find a chrome shop near you and be thier friends. Bring
> them bottled water, beer, women, whatever, tell them you are experimenting with
> the product and ask if they would price the grinding and polishing seperately
> with the promise that they will do the plating. When they've made the parts look
> as good as they can take them back to fill the pits.
> > Hope this helps!
> > Larry Gardinier
>
> ok, musings on problem
>
> would this workout???
>
> take to platers and have the chrome and copper layers stripped off
>
> would getting the base coat of copper refreshed plate the pits???
>
> If the replating in copper does place a layer of copper in the pits
> would this then provide a stronger surface adheasion for the muggy weld,
> or a good base for some other flows when hot enough material???
>
> sand the results then copper plate again for the chrome to be done
>
>
> --
> Paul Holmgren
> 2 57 300-C's in Indy
> Hoosier Corps L#6
>
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